Yearly Archives: 2014

San Cristobal and on to Palenque: from mountain pines to low-land jungle

The language classes in San Cristobal were a success! After spending most of a week there, we headed “downhill” to Ocosingo and onward to Palenque. The trek took five days, although we could have easily done it in half the time. We saw two different Mayan ruin sites and made it past a road-block protest. However, Daisy took her turn at being sick.

San Cristobal de las casas to Palenque

San Cristobal de las casas to Palenque

Jason with instructor Laura and fellow student Carmen

Jason with instructor Laura and fellow student Carmen

The Spanish lessons were well worth the time and cost. In case you’re wondering, it is relatively inexpensive – for US standards. I signed up for 15 hours of group class over 5 days, and the total was M$1320, or US$90. I had a class size of 1 or 2, and had two very different but both knowledgeable instructors. I enjoyed the opportunity to practice speaking — and I’m sure Daisy enjoyed the break from giving the lessons herself!

This tarantula is out of the cage at the bug and insect museum!

This tarantula is out of the cage at the bug and insect museum!

So what did Daisy do during the week? Yes, she was busy too. The first couple days she took care of our hostel choice and related things while I was still sick. Then, she finished a final(?) draft of a paper. Impressive, no? All this while sipping coffee along the pedestrian streets and people-watching! It was strange to see the many, many tourists wandering around in hippy-style clothing. We called them the ‘raggedy-baggedies’ since they reminded us of the alternative-living-surfer-dudes that we saw in Tofino, British Columbia. The mornings were for studying and work, and the afternoons for recovering and wandering the streets or going to museums.

Raggedy-baggedy pants in this one!

Raggedy-baggedy pants in this one!

We love the festive streamers on the pedestrian streets

We love the festive streamers on the pedestrian streets

When it came time, we were very excited to get back on the bikes and out of town. However, it was then Daisy’s turn for gastrointestinal distress. On day 1 out of San Cristobal we made it about half way to our intended destination – through a lot of up hill, menacing dogs, and way way too many speed bumps! We stopped in a town of 40 thousand-plus people, which was (of course!) in the middle of a large fiesta. After a bit of asking around (and difficult navigation) we arrived at the other side of the fiesta and finally found the two small hotels. Unfortunately, there was only one room available. It had dirty sheets, no electricity, and no hot water in the shared bathroom. There wasn’t even space for the bikes! After an unintentional detour on a dirt track to get back to the highway, we collapsed at the local medical center and they allowed us to camp there. It was a night filled with typical fiesta sounds, but we were tucked away safely.

This dirt track got really steep before we found the highway again. Needless to say, it didn't end up being a shortcut!

This dirt track got really steep before we found the highway again. Needless to say, it didn’t end up being a shortcut!

Our resting place for the night - boxed in by tables, benches, and vehicles!

Our resting place for the night – boxed in by tables, benches, and vehicles!

On day 2 we made it to Ocosingo (no uphill actually…) and got Daisy parked in a hotel to help her feel better. I spent a few hours in the afternoon taking a collective bus out to the ruins of Toniná. They were great – 7 terraces of buildings and pyramids built up and into a hillside. You were allowed to wander wherever you wanted. I even made a few Mexican friends!

Model of the ruins at Toniná

Model of the ruins at Toniná

Looking up at the hill and 7 terraces

Looking up at the hill and 7 terraces

Looking down from the very top

Looking down from the very top

I really was up there!

I really was up there!

Jason chillin' with two new friends. Apparently my blue eyes were attractive...

Jason chillin’ with two new friends. Apparently my blue eyes were attractive…

On day 3 we thought we were going to leave Ocosingo, but soon found out we weren’t going to make it anywhere. We left our hotel and biked about a mile to a large grocery store. From there we went up a couple steep hills on our way to the edge of town. Daisy was really feeling the stomach pain, so we decided to stop. I checked out the nearby hotels, which were all more expensive than the one from the previous night. We limped back to our hotel and were happy to move back in before they got the chance to clean our room! The internet was functional there — until the power went out for the whole town. We spent all afternoon and evening reading our kindles in the dark.

On day 4 we successfully exited town. Part-way through the day’s ride we ran into a looong line of parked cars. Immediately we wondered if there was a road-block ahead, as there was when we left Oaxaca. Sure enough, there was! The reason for the protest was that the Mexican government has taken Agua Azul out of the hands of the locals, so they are no longer getting the tourist revenue. In any case, we were able to barely sneak through. As we walked through the barricade, one guy was stopping us but a few others told him to let us through. Whew. The good news was that the traffic was really light afterwards! We decided to skip Agua Azul, and head on to Misol-Ha, another waterfall in the area.

Back-up from the road block

Back-up from the road block

Jungle and farms. The blue river down in the valley is the one that agua azul gets it's name from. It is blue.

Jungle and farms. The blue river down in the valley is the one that agua azul gets it’s name from. It is blue.

Daisy enjoys a coconut water "to go"

Daisy enjoys a coconut water “to go”

Jungle converted to corn fields

Jungle converted to corn fields

Misol-Ha waterfall

Misol-Ha waterfall

On Christmas Eve (day 5) we arrived in the tourist town of Palenque. It was bustling! We did our food shopping, and then went to the hippie-ish enclave of hotel/hostels called El Panchan on the road to the ruins. We got the last room at the Jungle Palace. Although we didn’t see any monkeys, we sure got our share of jungle rain! We spent that afternoon at Palenque viewing many, many pyramids and other structures. The tourist load was a bit lighter than usual, but the stone staircases were definitely a bit more treacherous! The sheer number of ruins (and Mexicans hawking their wares) was very impressive.

On the way to our room in the back of the "Jungle Palace"

On the way to our room in the back of the “Jungle Palace”

Big building and reconstructed tower at Palenque

Big building and reconstructed tower at Palenque

One of several large pyramids at Palenque

One of several large pyramids at Palenque

Daisy inspects the spot where the door hinges went

Daisy inspects the spot where the door hinges went

Looking back at several ruins from the top of another

Looking back at several ruins from the top of another

Jason's precarious position while he took the previous photo

Jason’s precarious position while he took the previous photo

Waterfall with limestone-like cavern formations on the walk to the museum

Waterfall with limestone-like cavern formations on the walk to the museum

Next up: the rush to Merida and visiting there with Daisy’s parents for a week.

Oaxaca to San Cristobal Part 2: The mountains of Chiapas

Our route from Oaxaca to San Cristobal - over 400 miles!

Our route from Oaxaca to San Cristobal – over 400 miles!

View during the climb into Chiapas

View during the climb into Chiapas

Our introduction to Chiapas included another raging headwind combined with an unexpectedly steep 3,000′ climb.  At times it was literally impossible to ride and we had to resort to walking up the hill.  During the wind gusts it was too difficult to even walk, and we had to use our bicycle’s brakes just to keep from getting blown back down the hill.  Yikes!!  Needless to say, it was another day where we didn’t make our intended destination.

The winds were fierce - and so was Jason's face

The winds were fierce – and so was Jason’s face

We turned off the main road an hour before sunset to seek out a small town to pass the night.  Yet again, we found a tiny town where perhaps no gringo has ever gone.  As we approached the main square we heard fresh bread being announced on the loudspeaker.  We followed this sound to its source: the beer dispensary.  Apparently, a local family uses it as a base to sell all sorts of homemade foods.  The bread was delicious!  We asked everyone we met about who to ask to get permission for camping. The town’s main official was out of town for another few hours, so we set up on a basketball court to make dinner. As we did so wave after wave of interested young men (and a lone woman) came by to gawk at us and ask us questions about our trip.  Luckily, the official eventually returned and let us camp in his mother’s patio.  She was kind to us and showed us her pet squirrel that she had rescued after it was hit by a car.  It was a restful night, but we were ready to be back on the road in the morning.

Countryside during our dirt-road tour towards the Sima

Countryside during our dirt-road tour towards the Sima

Our next day in Chiapas was supposed to be easy…  but of course it wasn’t.  We had a nice morning of riding up and down rolling hills, and we planned to stay at an ecotourism center situated next to a giant abyss in the ground over 400′ deep.  Unfortunately, we missed the shortcut turnoff and as a result we almost didn’t make it by dark.  The last 8 miles of riding were on a narrow dirt road that led us to the middle of nowhere.  We saw goats, horses, and cows all relaxing on the road.  What we didn’t see were cars or any other tourists, but we bravely rode on.  We emerged into a surprisingly well-kept and lovely area on the edge of an impressive abyss.

Jason is happy to have made it to the top of the 500' dirt climb

Jason is happy to have made it to the top of the 500′ dirt climb

Cattle (almost) blocking the road

Cattle (almost) blocking the road

The hole in the ground was a real thing!  It was a circular area about 400′ wide that had simply sunk into the ground.  The walls were sheer cliffs 400′ deep.  We camped for free that night in a flat area off to the side and comfortingly nearby were fully functioning restrooms.  The downside was the crazy British man also camping there who proceeded to have loud arguments with himself in the middle of the night.  Luckily, he left us alone and was gone early the next morning.

The Sima de los Cottoras (Sinkhole of the Parrots). Unfortunately for us, the birds migrated north in November so we didn't get to see the dramatic circular exit at sunrise. (On the other hand, we got to sleep in!)

The Sima de los Cottoras (Sinkhole of the Parrots). Unfortunately for us, the birds migrated north in November so we didn’t get to see their dramatic circular exit at sunrise. (On the other hand, we got to sleep in!)

Traffic as we entered Tuxtla Gutierrez

Traffic as we entered Tuxtla Gutierrez

Our next stop was the capital of Chiapas: Tuxtla Gutierrez.  For the last five or so days we had been seeing caravans of folks running along the road carrying torches.  We learned that these were pilgrimages for the Virgen of Guadalupe, who is very important for Mexicans.  The runners were always accompanied by festively decorated pick-up trucks, mini-vans, or even tractor trailers.  We exchanged waves and honks as we passed and got passed by them on the road.  Their pilgrimages finally ended on December 12, and we were lucky to be in a very major city for the final celebration.  The main street of this hectic town was shut down entirely to make room for pilgrims, street vendors, food, carnival rides, and thousands of pedestrians.  We were delighted by the festivities, if a little overwhelmed.  Once again, we were reminded that Mexico really knows how to party.

Main street turned (mostly) pedestrian during the celebration for the Virgen de Guadalupe

Main street turned (mostly) pedestrian during the celebration for the Virgen de Guadalupe

We were surprised to see carnival rides on some of the side streets!

We were surprised to see carnival rides on some of the side streets!

Don't forget the hundreds of motorcycles that were also part of the parade/pilgrimage - and the noise they made...

Don’t forget the hundreds of motorcycles that were also part of the parade/pilgrimage – and the noise they made…

Many "colectivos" lined up to take folks all over the place. For less than $1 US each, we got a 20 minute ride.

Many “colectivos” lined up to take folks all over the place. For less than $1 US each, we got a 20 minute ride.

Initially we planned to spend a single night in Tuxtla, but Jason began to feel a bit unwell the next day so we decided to take a rest.  In the afternoon he felt good enough to venture out of the hostel. We took a collective bus to a nearby town where we boarded a speed boat to take a sightseeing tour of the Sumidero Canyon.  This canyon was impressive for many reasons.  The sides of the canyon rise up to 3000 sheer feet above the water in towering walls.  In the narrow areas that weren’t cliff faces, rain forest abutted the river’s edge.  We even saw a crocodile!  It was a wonderful trip.

The canyon walls were tall and sheer

The canyon walls were tall and sheer

We loved how the hands went up to take photos - and we got to see it all from the back of the boat. The best was the girl with the full-size iPad.

We loved how the hands went up to take photos – and we got to see it all from the back of the boat. The best was the girl with the full-size iPad.

Water dripped from above and created a formation they call the Christmas tree

Water dripped from above and created a formation they call the Christmas tree

This tourist attraction wouldn't be complete without a floating snack store! (Surprisingly, there weren't any dogs at this stop...)

This tourist attraction wouldn’t be complete without a floating snack store! (Surprisingly, there weren’t any dogs at this stop…)

The next day we set out for our biggest day of climbing yet on this trip.  It was 6,300′ of elevation gain over 28 miles as we rode to the city of San Cristobal.  It was to be our hardest day yet, and not just for the climbing. In the morning Jason decided he felt good enough to make the climb, so we headed out.  Technically, he was right, but in retrospect we probably should have stayed put.  About 1/3 of the way into the climb Jason was feeling poorly with an upset stomach and a headache.  It was a surprise to both of us when he suddenly vomited in the road during a rest stop.  It sounds horrible, and I guess it was, but after it was over Jason felt much better and remarked that it tasted like a strawberry-banana smoothie.  Bizarre, but oh well.

Daisy's super-loaded bike

Daisy’s super-loaded bike

Daisy enjoys a much-earned "elote" for a snack. She even likes the spicy sauce!

Daisy enjoys a much-earned “elote” for a snack. She even likes the spicy sauce!

I took as much of the weight as I could off of Jason’s bike and we slowly continued climbing. He didn’t feel like eating but I tricked him into eating a lunch of fruits and veggies with peanut butter.  Slowly, slowly, slowly we made it up the mountain.  It was quite a moment of relief when we finally crested the last part of the hill and saw the shining city of San Cristobal in the valley below.

For now, we are staying put in the city while Jason recovers for a bit.  We hypothesize that he ate something that really really didn’t agree with him, and it is just going to take a bit to work its way out of his system.  We plan to stay here for around 5 days to also allow Jason to take some language classes, as long as he feels up to it.  We’ll let you know how it goes!

From Oaxaca to San Cristobal Part 1: Mountains, Wind, and more adventures.

Our route from Oaxaca to San Cristobal - over 400 miles!

Our route from Oaxaca to San Cristobal – over 400 miles!

Many mountain views like this during this stretch.

Many mountain views like this during this stretch.

It has been quite a journey these last few days.  We are finally, officially in Southern Mexico if you can believe it!  This area is alternately incredibly mountainous and incredibly flat with famously strong winds.  We feel proud to have conquered both the climbs and the wind.  Our few days crossing the narrowest part of Mexico – the isthmus – included the windiest riding we have ever experienced on a bicycle.  Our final climb to San Cristobal (accomplished just two days ago) rates as our hardest climb ever.

We can divide this portion of our trip into three sections: the ‘descent’ from Oaxaca, the crossing of the isthmus, and our entry into the mountains of Chiapas.  Each of them could be a post of their own, but I did manage to condense the first two into this update.  You’ll have to wait another day to read about our entry into Chiapas though, sorry!

First, the ‘descent’ from Oaxaca City.

Our indoor camping spot in an itsy bitsy town.  We slept well here.

Our indoor camping spot in an itsy bitsy town. We slept well here.

I use the word ‘descent’ cautiously to describe our three day journey from Oaxaca, at 5,000′, to sea level.  I do this because we had to climb over 6,000′ in the process!  While in Oaxaca we spent far more money than usual, so we jokingly decided to try and spend as little as possible for the next week.  We later abandoned this idea when faced with a rainstorm and tired legs, but by sheer lack of services we ended up spending next to nothing anyway!  We stopped early on our first night out of the city in a tiny town after getting rained on during a sinuous descent.  Of course, the town had no hotel but in the process of asking for one we found a simple room attached to a restaurant.  For $7 we had an indoor camping spot, a shower, and a bathroom.

The very best part of the room was the company.  Three little kids aged 2, 4, and 6 were

Jason drinking a traditional corn beverage in the restaurant next to our room.

Jason drinking a traditional corn beverage in the restaurant next to our room.

fascinated with our stuff and kept us company as we made and ate dinner.  After dinner we were surprised by yet another festival!  This time it was a street parade / fundraiser for some purpose.  We are not sure at all, we just know that a live band and about half the town was wandering the streets asking for donations and dancing.  We were immediately spotted as possibly the only gringos to ever stay in town, and forced to dance along with them.  What a riot!

A glimpse of the town party.  They took over the one road through town and were escorted by the village ambulance.

A glimpse of the town party. They took over the one road through town and were escorted by the village ambulance.

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We met our first cyclsts since Tyler! Denny and Dennis were heading north.

Our next day riding was utterly exhausting, but also lovely.  We climbed 5,000′ total as we rose out of one river valley and descended into another repeatedly.   It was threatening dark when we reached a teeny town called ‘La Reforma’ where we got permission to camp at the town basketball court.  Miraculously, they opened up a bathroom for us and there was free satellite Wifi!  Of course, there were also fireworks at 5:30 am.  The morning was salvaged by a man selling sweet bread from his truck.  Yum!

So many hills all day long.

So many hills all day long.

'To educate a child costs a lot, but not educating him costs more'.  We really liked this.

‘To educate a child costs a lot, but not educating him costs more’. We really liked this.

Our opportunistic camping spot.

Our opportunistic camping spot.

On our way down the mountain finally approaching the coast.

On our way down the mountain finally approaching the coast.

The last part of our descent was finally pure downhill!  It was a joy to blast out of the mountains with a tailwind.  We ate too much fruit at a fruteria, and drank too much horchata and coconut water in a market town.  It was beautiful.

The bag of fruit after.

The bag of fruit after.

The bag of fruit before.

The bag of fruit before.

The overdose of fresh drinks marked the end of the ‘escape from Oaxaca’ and the beginning of our crossing of the Isthmus.  We had a mere 26 flat km (about 15 miles) to cross before reaching our intended destination… but it took us nearly 2.5 hours and had us wondering if we should get a ride.

Jason with the mountains of Oaxaca behind him. Note: He didn't notice that I had stopped to take this photo and almost ran me over!

Jason with the mountains of Oaxaca behind him. Note: He didn’t notice that I had stopped to take this photo and almost ran me over!

Flat land ahead of us!!

Flat land ahead of us!!

What?  The Philtrons thinking about a ride?!  Don’t worry, we didn’t get one, but we did think about it!  You see, the wind was immensely powerful, and directly from the side.  This means that we had to lean far to the side just to stay straight, and every time a large vehicle passed we would be suddenly sucked toward it by the difference in wind.  We quickly decided to simply stop riding every time a truck or bus neared.  In this way we crept slowly but safely towards our destination.

Evidence of crazy wind.

Evidence of crazy wind.

Many wind turbines.

Many wind turbines.

The Isthmus is the narrowest portion of Mexico, and also the only portion where the mountains cease for a brief space.  The winds from the Gulf of Mexico rush through this gap and rage through the flat lands on the Pacific Coast.  We rode through this area on flat, straight roads while being gusted by the wind in all directions.  It was neat to be surrounded by towering wind turbines, and frustrating too to be practically blown backward at times.  We had the good fortune to stay with a host at the end of our windy day.  Rodrigo, Lupita, and their three sons gave us a warm welcome.  We spent the evening chatting and watching YouTube videos with the kids.  It is amazing how much 4 and 6 year-olds know about technology!

More windmills on the flat road.  Did I mention it was threatening rain too?

More windmills on the flat road. Did I mention it was threatening rain too?

Jason watching Youtube videos with Lupita and the kids.  It was hilarious.

Jason watching Youtube videos with Lupita and the kids. It was hilarious.

After our overnight at Rodrigo’s home we once more headed into the mountains, but this time in a new state: Chiapas.  This is Mexico’s southernmost state, and is known for more mountains, jungles, rainforest, Mayan ruins, and its vibrant indigenous inhabitants.  So far, we have mostly experienced the mountains.  Unfortunately for you, you will have to wait for tomorrow to hear about this next part of our trip!

Here are a few more photos that give more of a snapshot into our experience here:

These motorcycle-taxis are everywhere here with many modifications.

These motorcycle-taxis are everywhere here with many modifications.

Two different kinds of moto-taxis.  One driver was helping to guide us to a cheap hotel in the city.

Two different kinds of moto-taxis. One driver was helping to guide us to a cheap hotel in the city.

Aw... horchata.  The heavenly drink made from almonds, rice, vanilla, and cinnamon.  So cheap and so refreshing!

Aw… horchata. The heavenly drink made from almonds, rice, vanilla, and cinnamon. So cheap and so refreshing!

Three days in Oaxaca City

New foods in Oaxaca!  Crunch.

New foods in Oaxaca! Crunch.

We arrived in Oaxaca city prepared to take a rest day, maybe two, but we ended up staying three days and four nights.  We loved this town, and could have spent even more time here!  It helped that we stayed in a really comfortable (and affordable) hostel, and that it offered the fourth night’s stay free!  In our three days here we went to two fantastic sets of ruins, visited a giant museum, saw the widest tree in the world, visited a ‘petrified waterfall’, and learned about traditional dying and weaving of wool.  We also ate lots of new exciting foods like mole and grasshoppers.

Our first day was filled with wandering the streets, eating new foods, and visiting a museum about the history of Oaxaca.  Jason has been excited about trying new types mole: rich, flavorful sauces that are characteristic of this region.  We went to the food market in the city center to get steaming plates of different moles, along with delicious fruit waters.  As we ate a local woman came by selling fried grasshoppers – another typical food of the region.  We decided the grasshoppers were really yummy, but we couldn’t look at them before we ate them.

Black mole: a very intense sauce made from over 40 ingredients.

Black mole: a very intense sauce made from over 40 ingredients.

Every day was another party!  We are not even sure what this one was for.

Every day was another party! We are not even sure what this one was for.

The impressive church / convent building that housed the city museum.

The impressive church / convent building that housed the city museum.

Some high school students that interviewed us for a class project.

Some high school students that interviewed us for a class project.

That afternoon we went to the city museum that is housed in a giant ex-convent that is more like a maze than anything else.  The museum had lots of information and artifacts about the pre-hispanic cultures of the area, as well as about colonization and current life.  It went on and on…

Our second day in Oaxaca we went to the stunning archeaological site of Monte Alban.  This is an ancient city built on top of a hill at the center of three mountain valleys.  The indigenous groups of the area managed to keep this site secret from the Spaniards until this century, so it was not looted or dissassembled by them at all.  It was a stunning site, and it was particularly fun because we went with a new friend, Liam, that we met at our hostel.

Monte Alban was perched at the top of a hill, where the original inhabitants had landscaped it to be a flat plateau.

Monte Alban was perched at the top of a hill, where the original inhabitants had landscaped it to be a flat plateau.

They used this impressive sundial for telling both time and tracking seasons.

They used this impressive sundial for telling both time and tracking seasons.

You can tell we are towering above the valleys.

You can tell we are towering above the valleys.

Many of these rock carvings were found and preserved here.

Many of these rock carvings were found and preserved here.

One area of Monte Alban.

One area of Monte Alban.

We went all out on our last day in town and took an organized all-day tour.  It was so much fun that we will consider this kind of activity in the future too.  For about $15 each we got transportation to 5 different attractions, and a tour guide for our small group.

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Our first stop was the Tule tree: the world’s widest tree.  It dwarfs the church whose courtyard it sits in, and is surrounded by a constant stream of tourists.

Our next stop was our favorite.  We went to visit a family who specializes in traditional wool weaving.  They gave a very nice presentation on how wool is prepared, turned into yarn, dyed using traditional methods, and woven on a traditional loom.  Our favorite part was learning about the red and purple dyes which are made from a tiny insect that lives on the prickly pear cactus plant.  When the dried bugs are ground up, they add liquid of different acidity to make different colors.  It was so neat!  We ended up buying a rug, even though we’ll have to carry it for the next month.  We just couldn’t resist!

The traditional way to spin yarn here.

The traditional way to spin yarn here.

The cochinilla bug all dried up on the left, and the cactus leaf it lives on.

The cochinilla bug all dried up on the left, and the cactus leaf it lives on.

Jason here is learning about the cochinilla bug.

Jason here is learning about the cochinilla bug.

All the incredible colors they can make with naturally found dyes.

All the incredible colors they can make with naturally found dyes.

Our new rug.  Someday we will leave in a place with non-tent walls where we can hang it up!

Our new rug. Someday we will leave in a place with non-tent walls where we can hang it up!

Jason was too tall for this site.

Jason was too tall for this site.

After the wool stop we went to another archealogical site.  This one was very interesting because it was occupied right up until the Spanish conquest of Mexico, when the Spaniards toppled one of the temple buildings and used the stones to build a church on top.  Most of the other buildings were similarly vandalized, but one was defended and is now wonderfully preserved.  The stonework was incredible, and we even got to go down into one of the tombs through a narrow, short tunnel.

Some of the very impressive stonework in Mitla.

Some of the very impressive stonework in Mitla.

They still don't know what these pillars supported.

They still don’t know what these pillars supported.

Next up was the petrified waterfall called ‘Hierve el agua’. Literally, this means ‘the water boils’.  There is a mineral rich spring bubbling up at the top of a cliff.  When the water cascades down the cliffside it deposits the minerals in slow motion, forming what appears to be a frozen waterfall.  The government built some small swimming pools at the top to catch the spring water, and there were actually lots of people in and around them.

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Our final stop was at a traditional mezcal factory.  This is a type of strong liquor made from a cactus plant.  To make it they cook the base of the cactus plant underground for three days, crush them into pulp and squish out the juice, ferment that for eight days, and then bottle it up to age.  Quite a process!  A few days after we learned this we accidentally bought some of the fresh-squeezed agave juice at a market when we tried to buy honey.  It certainly does the trick though, and sweetens up our oatmeal in the morning.

It’s been a while since we last updated, and a LOT has happened since then, most of it outside of internet land.  We will post again soon to tell of these adventures! We promise!