Glaciers, plains, and finally entering the mountains.

The Perito Moreno Glacier.

The Perito Moreno Glacier.

Another impressive view of the glacier.

Another impressive view of the glacier.

When last we updated, we had just completed our first week of riding in Patagonia. There had been wonderful mountain scenery, open vistas, and strong winds. We stopped for a day in the small town of Calafate, which is mostly new construction and infested with crowds of tourists. Because of this almost overwhelming tide of trendy tourists in outdoor gear, we didn’t spend much time in town. We did, however, go to the area’s main attraction: the Perito Moreno glacier. It was well worth it!

This glacier is one of only two in all of South America that is actually advancing. Every day it advances up to 2 meters, and chunks of ice are constantly breaking off its face to crash into the lake below. We took a 90 minute bus ride to the viewing area, which was actually 5 km of metal boardwalks that criss-cross the hill overlooking the glacier. It was incredibly well-done, and despite the large volume of tourists we never felt like it was a zoo, and we always had a great view.

The blue of a glacial lake never ceases to impress.

The blue of a glacial lake never ceases to impress.

We even got to play with this piece of iceberg that some kids had retrieved from the lake.

We even got to play with this piece of iceberg that some kids had retrieved from the lake.

It was fun to just relax in the sun and watch chunks of ice calve off the glacier. The glacier is as tall as a 24 story building. For you folks back in Bellingham – that’s 9 stories higher than the tallest building in Bellingham! The sound of the ice chunks falling all the way to the water below was a deep rumble that we could feel even from our relatively far off vantage point. We couldn’t get close because it is dangerous. Before they restricted access, 32 people had died at this glacier after being struck by ice spears. Scary stuff indeed.

Our first glimpse of the ice sheet as we approached the national park.

Our first glimpse of the ice sheet as we approached the national park.

Exterior of the famous 'Pink House'

Exterior of the famous ‘Pink House’

After we left Calafate we headed back out into the Argentine plains for another couple days. The wind was yet again a major factor, but we were lucky to shelter in an abandoned house for a night. This house is somewhat of a legend among touring cyclists, and over time it has been cleaned up a bit with many cyclists having left their mark.

 

Interior of the house.  We shared with Benjamin, a very friendly Austrian cyclist .

Interior of the house. We shared with Benjamin, a very friendly Austrian cyclist.

Our last day of riding through the flat, windy expanse was a bit of a tease. We could see the iconic peaks of the Patagonian Andes slowly growing closer over the course of five hours of riding. The wind got stronger and stronger, until we were crawling along at 6 miles an hour. Eventually, however, we reached the base of those incredible peaks and entered the small town of Chalten.

The 'beware of wind' sign really describes this area well.

The ‘beware of wind’ sign really describes this area well. 

Far off mountains in the morning.

Far off mountains in the morning.

After lunch, getting closer!

After lunch, getting closer!

Almost there!

Almost there!

Holy mountains!

Holy mountains!

Casa de ciclistas - jam-packed.

Casa de ciclistas – jam-packed.

Outside of the Casa de Ciclistas.

Outside of the Casa de Ciclistas.

This town was like a theme park for hikers and backpackers. It is known as the ‘National Trekking Capital’, since for some reason here folks always ‘trek’ and never ‘hike’. Perhaps hiking sounds too mundane. In any case, the town was incredibly scenic and we enjoyed a free night of camping at our first ‘Casa de Ciclistas’. It was a private home run by a local woman who loved to host touring cyclists. Her backyard was jam-packed with tents.

When we finally left Chalten it was to ride 22 miles on a gravel road to a secluded lake where we would catch a pair of ferries separated by a hiking trail where we would need to push the bikes. More on that in the next post. For now, here are some photos from that phenomenal gravel road and the first boat ride.

Heading into the mountains!

Heading into the mountains!

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Maybe we'll use this photo for a calendar in the future.

Maybe we’ll use this photo for a calendar in the future.

A view of the lake from the south side.

A view of the water from the south side of Lago Desierto.

These four British guys were pretty excited to get their bikes on the ferry.

These four British guys were pretty excited to get their bikes on the ferry.

 

Argentine customs, with Patagonia geese.

Argentine customs, with Patagonia geese.

We camped on the far side next to Argentine customs, and I’m not sure I’ve ever slept in so scenic a location.

The view from our campsite.  No kidding!

The view from our campsite. No kidding!

5 thoughts on “Glaciers, plains, and finally entering the mountains.

  1. xiomara

    Nunca había visto un glaciar, y es emocionante, impresionante, maravilloso. Los paisajes son increíbles. Esta experiencia será inolvidable, sin duda. Se les ve estupendamente, saludables y felices. Me alegro. Muchos besos

  2. millie

    Super neat photos of glacier! Can’t imagine riding through those mountains. Looking forward to the next round of photos!
    Millie

  3. Aunt Kaye

    What an adventure. Here in New Jersey we are in 2 feet of snow and more on the way. Good that you decided to follow “summer”. Be safe. Aunt Kaye

  4. Daydre Phillips

    No snow here, no wind, just gray.
    Happy you are having such an incredible “real life” adventure!!
    Like the idea of a calendar!
    Have fun.
    We love you,
    Mom and Dad

Comments are closed.