We found the coffee! Popayan to Salento.

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This post only covers four days of adventuring, but they were so packed with fun and pictures that we decided to post about them.  Last time we updated, we were taking an extra day in Popayan while our bicycles’ wheels got rebuilt with new rims.  I am happy to report that the repair job was both top notch and incredibly cheap.  The mechanic only charged us $2 in labor for each wheel, if you can believe it.  We insisted on paying him more, which I think truly surprised him!

The mechanic who rebuilt our wheels on very short notice.

The mechanic who rebuilt our wheels on very short notice.

Three guys on one moto, and crazy passing truck.

Three guys on one moto, and crazy passing truck.

It was mostly downhill after Popayan, and we descended into the steaming heart of sugar cane country.  The fields went on and on as far as we could see.  To move the harvested sugar cane, absolutely massive trucks called ‘sugar cane trains’ drove along the straight highway.  These trucks were towing up to 5 massive trailers, and some had 54 or even 58 wheels!  It was very hot in the valley, over 90 degrees, but it was so flat that we made excellent time.  The town we stayed in was a lively, tropical town full of juice stalls and motorcycles.

Riding through the sugar cane.

Riding through the sugar cane.

Sugar cane train!

Sugar cane train!

Thank goodness for the fan in this room - it is hot down here in the lowlands!

Thank goodness for the fan in this room – it is hot down here in the lowlands!

Our second day out was almost completely flat.  As you can guess, it was also hot, and pretty dang boring.  Oh, and I got two flat tires before 10 am.  Enough said.

Cane trains and motorcycles

Cane trains and motorcycles

The flats went on and on...

The flats went on and on…

Small town church.

Small town church.

The hills begin again.

The hills begin again.

We finally left the valley on our third day and headed into the hills straight away.  It was lovely, with all sorts of tropical plants and fruit stands.  We navigated a couple of hectic, dense cities and finally emerged into the coffee zone.  That’s right – the coffee zone!  They actually call it the ‘coffee axis’, but I think that sounds a bit strange in English.

Pineapple farm in the hills.

Pineapple farm in the hills.

Fruit stands all along the road.

Fruit stands all along the road.

Jason happy in a central plaza

Jason happy in a central plaza

The cities are very dense with many high-rise apartment buildings

The cities are very dense with many high-rise apartment buildings

A very friendly day rider

A very friendly day rider

We found a sweet dog!

We found a sweet dog!

This coffee farm dog looked more like a polar bear than a dog.

This coffee farm dog looked more like a polar bear than a dog.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived in the tourist town of Salento at 2:30, and quickly found a room and jumped on a coffee tour at a nearby farm.  It was a fantastic tour!  We got to learn about coffee plants, berries, harvest, and preparation. This coffee production thing is a lot more complicated than I ever thought.

Seedlings in sand.

Seedlings in sand.

The coffee plants are sprouted in sand for four months, then they are transplanted to little bags of compost.  After about a year they are about 16 inches tall, when they are planted in the field. After five years they start to produce berries, and will continue to do so for about 60 years.  That is a long time!  Coffee berries then have to be de-pulped, soaked for 24 hours, rinsed, dried, peeled, and finally roasted.  We got to go through the whole process with our guide, including grinding, roasting, and drinking.

Seedling in compost (we planted this one!)

Seedling in compost (we planted this one!)

One year old seedlings

One year old seedlings

Coffee flower and berries

Coffee flower and berries

Taking the berry pulp off the coffee beans.

Taking the berry pulp off the coffee beans.

Drying the coffee

Drying the coffee

Roasting the coffee

Roasting the coffee

 

Even though the coffee part was great, Jason and I both agreed that our favorite part of the tour was seeing the other plants on the farm: pineapple, bamboo, banana, and other crazy fruits that don’t have names in English.

Pineapple starting to grow.

Pineapple starting to grow.

Bamboo.

Bamboo.

Crazy tangy fruit we'd never tried.

Crazy tangy fruit we’d never tried.

The next day we got up early to take a tourist jeep to a nearby valley for a hike.  We got there so early, in fact, that no one else was there and we had to wait for the first jeep. Our hike up the well-known Valley of Cocora was absolutely lovely.  We walked through fields, then cloud forest, and across many bridges.  There was a hummingbird house at the end of the trail where we sipped hot chocolates and dozens of them buzz around the feeders.

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Our Jeep was full with 7 passengers in the main section, plus another 5 that had the pleasure of standing on the rear bumper and holding on!

A local dog walked along with us

A local dog walked along with us

This massive horse had quite a load of milk!

This massive horse had quite a load of milk!

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Entering the cloud forest

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There were several bridges of questionable stability

There were several bridges of questionable stability

Hummingbirds!

Hummingbirds!

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On our way back down (via a different route) we got to walk through a grove of wax palms.  These are super tall palm trees that only grow in very specific, high-altitude conditions.

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We made it back to our room in Salento around 2 pm, and immediately fell asleep.  Going straight from cycle-tourist to regular tourist is exhausting!

Salento's streets are very colorful. The town was another case of "Gringolandia."

Salento’s streets are very colorful. The town was another case of “Gringolandia.”

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5 thoughts on “We found the coffee! Popayan to Salento.

  1. Naomi Altman

    Oddly, I was served this same crazy tangy fruit in Dagstuhl, Germany today. It apparently has a name in both Spanish and German (although I was not quick enough to catch what it is.)

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