Monthly Archives: August 2014

Perfect riding to San Francisco, and days as tourists

We are in San Francisco, nearing the end of a 5 day layover that we’ve used to rest, plan, and spend time with family.  Since we last updated we had three days of wonderful riding along the coast with Jason’s family friend Mark before crossing the iconic Golden Gate Bridge into downtown San Francisco.  We had a blast with Mark, and enjoyed the sunny weather and tailwinds that accompanied us on this last stretch.

Look where we made it to!

Look where we made it to!

Lunch with a view.

Lunch with a view.

I know that we have complained in the past about this coastal route, but it has finally started to deliver.  In the last few weeks it was so busy, and surprisingly cold, and we missed the views of the mountains.  Lately, however, the road has gone up and down over the high coastal headlands for miles, and we relish the hills.  There have also been some very charming small coastal towns and friendly cyclists in camp.

A few views of the headlands, cliffs, towns, and sights.

The road is in the upper left.

The road is in the upper left.

The view after the climb.

The view after the climb.

Perfect conditions along Tomales Bay. Many oysters around here!

Perfect conditions along Tomales Bay. Many oysters around here!

One day, conditions were so perfect that I went a little nuts.  The tailwind was so strong I felt like I wasn’t carrying any bags at all!  I flew down the road, completely delighted with things, until I realized I was so far ahead of Jason and Mark that i couldn’t even see them anymore!  Oops.

Cyclist party at the hiker / biker site.

Cyclist party at the hiker / biker site.

Our last night before San Francisco was spent in Samuel P. Taylor State Park, in the company of about 15 other cyclists.  There was a french couple near the end of a 17-month trip across Eurasia and then down the Pacific Coast.  There was also a Penn State graduate currently living in Bellingham, WA.  What a crazy chance meeting!  We had a very fun night chatting, and the camp was silent by 10pm.  Oh, the glories of the hiker / biker site.

Negotiating the outskirts of a big city like San Francisco was daunting, but it was actually surprisingly easy and scenic. The bike paths and routes were packed with cyclists – both spando-clad speedsters on featherlite bikes and wide-eyed tourists on rentals.  Eventually we made it to the base of the big red bridge and started across.  The wind was so strong!  It was a little anti-climatic, since the bike path was narrow and congested.  The views were good though, and we certainly felt accomplished when we finally rolled into the city.

So many cyclists! Note to self: don't ride across the golden gate bridge on a Sunday.

So many cyclists! Note to self: don’t ride across the golden gate bridge on a Sunday.

The view from the big red bridge.

The view from the big red bridge.

Jason’s parents were waiting for us in the heart of downtown in their timeshare building’s lobby.  It was so great to see them again!  Hugs all around, and bicycles in the elevator.  The timeshare is incredible: perfect views, all the amenities imaginable, and even showers without quarter-timers!

We’ll do a post in a day or two summarizing our time here as tourists, after all, we still have another day to enjoy it.  One more bit of news first though:  I have gotten the green light to schedule my defense at Penn State, and we have bought tickets to fly back east from Sept. 20 to 27.  Yippee!  We will fly from San Diego, and then at the beginning of October we will finally start our next leg: Mexico!

We found a big globe, and Jason had long enough arms to span our entire trip!

We found a big globe, and Jason had long enough arms to span our entire trip!

Wildflowers of the north – part 1

I have had a bunch of wildflower photos waiting for me to post them, and it is finally time! My mother has spent several hours pouring over a book of wildflowers to bring you the names of these flowers, and a little info to go along. (Thanks, mom!!!!)

These photos are all from Canada – British Columbia and the Yukon. Daisy and I have since seen many of the same flowers on our path south, especially when we venture into higher elevation.

Watercresses (nasturtium officinale). These small (1/4”) flowers enjoy growing on the banks of cold water springs and streams.

Watercresses (nasturtium officinale). These small (1/4”) flowers enjoy growing on the banks of cold water springs and streams.

Blue lupine (lupines perennis). Another Lupine! We have seen so many of these on our trip - probably because there are more than 200 species. They have hard round seeds eaten by quail and other game birds. Some species contain an alkaloid which is toxic.

Blue lupine (lupines perennis). Another Lupine! We have seen so many of these on our trip – probably because there are more than 200 species. They have hard round seeds eaten by quail and other game birds. Some species contain an alkaloid which is toxic.

 

Wild Columbine (aquilegia canadensis). The 5 petals stretch back into a spur, giving it a bird-like form. This inspired the common name “columbine” which means dove, and the scientific name “aquilegia” which is Latin for eagle.

Wild Columbine (aquilegia canadensis). The 5 petals stretch back into a spur, giving it a bird-like form. This inspired the common name “columbine” which means dove, and the scientific name “aquilegia” which is Latin for eagle.

 

Wild strawberry (fragaria virginiana). Yum! We found a couple small fruit, but obviously the size isn’t much like the cultivated variety. Apparently the strawberry is not a berry at all but the pulpy center of the flower and each of it's apparent seeds is actually a complete one-seeded fruit!

Wild strawberry (fragaria virginiana). Yum! We found a couple small fruit, but obviously the size isn’t much like the cultivated variety. Apparently the strawberry is not a berry at all but the pulpy center of the flower and each of it’s apparent seeds is actually a complete one-seeded fruit!

 

Creamcups (platystemon californicus). The color of these flowers range from yellow to white. Botanists debate whether there are up to 60 species or only one with variations.

Creamcups (platystemon californicus). The color of these flowers range from yellow to white. Botanists debate whether there are up to 60 species or only one with variations.

Marsh Cinquefoil (potentilla palustris). This flower is found in wet meadows and swamps. Although “cinquefoil” means 5-leaf, and many are, they can vary from 3 to 15 or more.

Marsh Cinquefoil (potentilla palustris). This flower is found in wet meadows and swamps. Although “cinquefoil” means 5-leaf, and many are, they can vary from 3 to 15 or more.

Fringepod (thysanocarpus curvipes). This flower is in the mustard family and the long stalk matches the dry mountain grasslands it grows alongside. The tiny white flowers sure are pretty!

Fringepod (thysanocarpus curvipes). This flower is in the mustard family and the long stalk matches the dry mountain grasslands it grows alongside. The tiny white flowers sure are pretty!

Golden Aster (chrysopsis villosa). This flower has been very prolific along hillsides and the road shoulder. The flowerhead is composed of two kinds of florets. In the center are tubular florets. Around the outside are ray flowers that look more like petals than blossoms although each is a separate floret with five petals of its own fused into a flat surface. (OK, that got a little technical - but it is a pretty cool flower!)

Golden Aster (chrysopsis villosa). This flower has been very prolific along hillsides and the road shoulder. The flowerhead is composed of two kinds of florets. In the center are tubular florets. Around the outside are ray flowers that look more like petals than blossoms although each is a separate floret with five petals of its own fused into a flat surface. (OK, that got a little technical – but it is a pretty cool flower!)

California’s northern coast: Both lost and otherwise

One of many stunning views along the California coast.

One of many stunning (and very very foggy) views along the California coast.

Map of our recent routeWe have been on the California coastal route for a few days now, and we have definitely had a lot of experiences and formed some opinions about the area! Our favorite part of the coast was the section known as the ‘Lost Coast’ because of its steep hills and isolation. We spent two days on an alternate route through this area. We have also enjoyed more redwoods, the rugged coastal cliffs, our interactions with other cyclists, and the hiker / biker areas in the state parks. The traffic has been frustrating, as has been riding on a major 4-lane highway for portions. Also, we have had some funny, and harmless, interactions with the local free-spirits. More on that later. To the left is a little map of our route for these few days.

Enjoying the KOA

Enjoying the KOA’s blackberries

We spent most of a day resting in the Arcata / Eureka area, which was very much needed. We actually didn’t do much besides eat, read, and sleep at the local KOA (Kampgrounds of America – obviously the founders weren’t winning any spelling bees). These are the Hiltons of campgrounds. They usually have pools, playgrounds, billiards, and pancake breakfasts. We were just happy for a quiet spot out of the way to read all afternoon.

Immediately after our rest day we started on the Lost Coast. The turn-off was tucked away behind the quaint Victorian town of Ferndale, which we really enjoyed. The Lost Coast is cut off from most of California by some very steep, very forbidding mountains. We were amazed at just how steep the road in was – definitely over 10% for at least four miles. The pavement was pocked, patched, and neglected but the views at the top were stunning. We could see for miles! Surprisingly, most of what we saw was cattle. Yes, you read that right. Ranchers use the tops of these forbidding mountains to graze cows. Wow.

 

Downtown Ferndale. They had a great grocery store too.
Downtown Ferndale. They had a great grocery store too.
The Victorian Hotel in Ferndale. Snazzy place!

The Victorian Hotel in Ferndale. Snazzy place!

The eternal flame.

The eternal flame.

We even slept in a field with a bunch of cows! A rancher invited us to camp in his field, and came by to check on us and tell us about his ‘eternal flame’. There is a spot on his land where natural gas constantly seeps out of cracks in the dirt. Someone lit it with a match long ago and it has burned ever since. We were certainly in awe when we found it, and we wished we had some hotdogs to roast over the flames.

Our camping spot - look closely to see our tent!

Our camping spot – look closely to see our tent!

The rest of the lost coast was much the same: very few people, uninterrupted coast and hills, and cows. The hills were very steep, and so were the descents. At the end of it, when we rejoined the main route further inland, we rode through magnificent redwood forests. Many many cyclists ride the coastal route, but we guess that less than 10% do the lost coast. It adds 8,000′ of extra climbing and about 50 miles, but we think it was worth it!

Surf and turf - prime oceanfront grazing.

Surf and turf – prime oceanfront grazing.

Climbing up and up on the Lost Coast.

Climbing up and up on the Lost Coast.

A view from the top of the climb.

A view from the top of the climb.

Jason, climbing a distant ridge.

Jason, climbing a distant ridge.

 

Bike-Thru tree.

Bike-Thru tree.

Back on the main route, we started to see cyclists. One night we camped in a state park with at least 15 of them! It was neat to see so many cyclists, and also a little bit overwhelming. We particularly enjoyed chatting with a father and sons group traveling from Portland to San Francisco. The very next night we stayed in a campground that was about six miles shy of the park where most cyclists stay. It turned out we were the only cyclists there! What a change. Those other cyclists probably knew something we didn’t though, since in the middle of the night a bunch of really drunk campers came by and made a ton of noise in and around the bathrooms next to our site. We finally gave up trying to sleep and just read our books for about an hour!

 

We some some bachelor elk wrassling next to the road.

We some some bachelor elk wrassling next to the road.

So about those free spirits in California. I don’t really know how to describe them, but they are everywhere. They aren’t necessarily vagrants, and they also are almost always friendly, but they say the most hilarious things. We see them hiking on the side of the road with their dogs, lounging at the picnic table in front of gas stations, and most particularly outside of grocery stores. We usually interact with them outside of grocery stores, since one person always stays with the bikes while the other shops. Yesterday’s interactions were the best. Jason stayed with the bikes while I shopped, and he learned all sorts of tidbits. He learned about the old guy who only wears one shoe because he gets more money that way, and about some other guy’s buddy who stepped in a hole in the graveyard, heard a crunch, and broke a rib (of a dead guy). Don’t worry – he went back with some dirt later and filled in the hole. Oh my oh my! When I finally got out of the grocery store a lady outside looked me up and down before saying ‘Very nice – blue is a power color’. I was wearing a blue dress. Ha!

 

Finally, a good shot of the coast with the winding road ahead. It's all up and down around here.

Finally, a good shot of the coast with the winding road ahead. It’s all up and down around here.

We only have about three more days before we hit San Francisco. Can you believe that? Three more days! Once there we will spend a week as tourists with Jason’s family in a timeshare. We cannot wait for the luxury of sleeping in the same bed for many nights, and having a kitchen to cook in. Cookies!

Chef Jason makes lunch at a massive redwood table.

Chef Jason makes lunch at a massive redwood table.

Reaching the coast, the Redwoods, and a lot of traffic

Since we last posted, we have made our way to the Oregon coast and down into California. Our progress was marked by many tall, tall trees, a lot of traffic, and an amazing remote road through the coastal mountains in Oregon.

Rocks abound on the OR and CA coast

Rocks abound on the OR and CA coast

Instead of taking Hwy 199 from Grants Pass, OR to the California coast, we decided to take a forest road known locally as Bear Camp Road. We followed the Rogue River, and then split off to climb the coastal mountain range. The (mostly paved) road took us up, up, up along a tiny creek and then popped us out on top of the hills. We had a commanding view of nearby valleys, and it was reminiscent of Top of the World Highway back in the Yukon.

Looking down into the valleys from Bear Camp Road

Looking down into the valleys from Bear Camp Road

Jason swimming the Rogue River. We spent a couple hours here during one hot afternoon.

Jason swimming the Rogue River. We spent a couple hours here during one hot afternoon.

Eventually we descended back down to the Rogue and followed it out to the ocean. Not without a few more hills to climb, though! We met the ocean at Gold Beach, OR, a small beach town full of motels and not much else. We found a nice RV park that had tent sites in the back, separated from the noise of generators and the hustle and bustle of the big rigs. It also had a cafe where we got a great breakfast.

4-egg omelettes do not disappoint! We saved the pancakes as a nutella-covered snack for later.

4-egg omelettes do not disappoint! We saved the pancakes as a nutella-covered snack for later.

Chalk "graffiti" in Harbor, OR

Chalk “graffiti” in Harbor, OR. The folks who wrote the message in the top left got it right!

Daisy hugs a Redwood tree

Daisy hugs a Redwood tree

The next day was our 101st from leaving State College, and it was our first day on the coastal Hwy 101! We enjoyed seeing the rocky beaches and meeting a few other cyclists. We actually had our first celebrity sighting – that is, some other cyclists recognized us and asked if we were The Philtrons!

Every day the mist is heavy, but it usually it burns off by early afternoon. We stayed in a hiker/biker campsite in the famous Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park. Smith was the first European to lead an overland expedition to the coast. The park protected some old growth redwood forest. We later learned from a ranger talk that 96% of the redwoods were logged, so only 4% of the old growth remains! The next day we set out on a gravel road that led towards Crescent City from the park. It took us past Stout Grove and many more very tall trees.

Stout Grove in Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park

Stout Grove in Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park

Daisy stands among the old growth

Daisy stands among the old growth

Last night we had the pleasure of rolling into the Arcata area and staying with some longtime friends of Daisy’s family. Today we are taking a rest day in Arcata and Daisy just sent off a complete dissertation draft to her advisor. So exciting! Tomorrow we head to the Lost Coast and are looking forward to getting away from the traffic for a little while.

Daisy and Peter

Daisy and Peter