More on our time in State College a bit later, but we just want our readers to know that Daisy successfully defended her dissertation today! She actually had a good time, and Jason made some absolutely delicious Nanimo bars for the event.
Success! Thanks to my adviser.
Nanaimo bar production
Beautiful mint bars!
On Palomar mountain
We are, quite literally, spinning our wheels here in San Diego. Ha! But really, we have too much time in San Diego while waiting for my (Daisy’s) defense date for finishing my PhD. After spending a few days resting and getting work done, we decided to hit the road again. We spent four riding days in the mountains around San Diego, getting very close to Mexico in the process, and we loved it. The coast has been good, but it is the mountains that we truly love. This was a great side trip, despite the fact that it was during a heat wave! This post is longer than usual because it was such a great four days. If you want, just scan the pictures and you will be convinced!
Sunrise in San Diego
We left San Diego well before dawn on our first day out, knowing that the heat would only get more intense later in the day. Even at 4:30 am, it was about 70 degrees. It was wonderful to ride on the empty streets and watch the stars get brighter as we moved away from the city. We stopped for `lunch’ in an orange orchard before 10am, when the temperature was already uncomfortable. Luckily, we were carrying a LOT of water, and we would need it.
Our route took us up a 4,500′ climb over less than 10 miles along a dirt road. You read that right: it was awesome! The road criss-crossed a steep hill overlooking a valley, eventually leading us into scattered trees and finally a full forest. It was hot, and steep. We stopped frequently for rest in every bit of shade we could find. Once it got really hot (95+) we laid down in the shade of a tree and slept for two hours. A passing thunderstorm woke us up, cooled us off, and got us back on the road.
Resting in any patch of shade available.
The view down from midway up the climb.
Jason on the dirt road.
That night we stayed in a beautiful, if mostly abandoned, state park. For some reason, I decided to do a load of laundry in our camp bucket after dinner. It was a terrible idea!! I got nearly 40 mosquito bites before rushing into the safety of the tent. We were sound asleep by 8 o’clock. What a great day!
A treat.
We slept for nearly 12 hours. We ignored the alarm we had set and enjoyed the relative cool of our high altitude camping spot. It was a stunning ride along the side of the mountain, and we were amazed at how far away the valley floor seemed. Eventually, it was time to descend, but we took a much more gradual (and more paved!) route. It was wonderful. We finished the downhill portion at Lake Henshaw, a resevoir that is chock-full of wild birds, even if it is quite low on water. The resort on its shore also had a BBQ restaurant where we treated ourselves to lunch as soon as they opened.
Lake Henshaw in the distance.
The climb away from the lake was gradual. We passed through a few small towns where we stopped for cold drinks and groceries. The plan had been to ride to another state park campground, but we ended up stopping a few miles early to camp alongside another reservoir. The campground called itself a park, with a ‘resident ranger’, but we are quite certain it was privately owned. After we paid we asked if there was a problem with raccoons. They said yes. Then we asked if there were food storage containers. They said no. So…. where should we store the food? In your car, they said. Ha! The campground host advised us to “eat it all” once we pointed out the obvious fact that we didn’t have a car In the end, we stored our food in a (clean) trash can with a very heavy rock on top. Regardless of our amusement with the campground host, the lake was beautiful. We enjoyed watching hummingbirds, bats, herons, and other birds.
Clouds rolled in during the afternoon.
In the distance, the desert.
A lovely spot to camp for the night.
Our third day was just as great, if that’s possible. When we woke up the sky was perfectly clear. By the time we finished breakfast, a giant stormcloud covered the sky. We started riding with the smell of rain everywhere, but somehow we avoided getting wet. Our route was wonderful: views over a wide expanse of desert, nearly non-existent traffic, and we slowly climbed through various ecosystems.
Stormclouds over the desert : stunning!
Loooong views down the canyons.
Descending towards our oasis of a campground.
Then we reached the top, and proceeded to descend for what seemed like forever. It was beautiful. We brushed up against the US-Mexico border on the way to our campground. It was so difficult not to take the turn and start riding the Baja right then! We resisted though, and ended up in a county park that was like an oasis in the desert. For $5 each we had literally the entire place to ourselves. That night we heard coyotes yipping and crying eerily outside the campground, but we slept well.
Finally, the next day we rode into San Diego. The first few hours of riding were through dry scrub brush with low traffic, but we were quickly engulfed by San Diego sprawl. Our ride ended near Jason’s friends’ house, where we chilled for hours reading books until they got off work. We had a wonderful dinner with them (Thanks Colin and Jaime!), and slept well in their attic.
Next time we pass here, we’ll take the turn for Tecate and cross into Mexico. !!!
As I write this, I am in the San Diego airport getting ready to fly out east. We will be in State College for one week so that I can defend my dissertation and finally complete requirements for my PhD. After that, we will spend a few days visiting with my parents in San Diego and then finally, finally enter Mexico October 3 or 4. I am looking forward to the next two weeks!
Over the past few days we’ve ridden from the LA area down to San Diego. It was amazing to arrive and look back at how far we’ve come! About 5500 miles so far, and so, so many stories.
Our route from Anchorage, AK to San Diego, CA. 5500 miles and counting!
For those of you in State College, we’ll be telling a few of these stories at two different presentations about our trip. The first will be for the Statistics Department at 3:30 on Tuesday, Sept 23. The second will be at Appalachian Outdoors at 7:00 on Thursday, Sept 25. Hope to see you there!
Ballona Creek bikeway. Mostly a gravel bottom cement-sided tidal pool. However, life abounds!
The ride out of the Los Angeles area was long, but much better than I anticipated. Our route took us on many different bike paths along the beach and tidal waterways. At one point the path even went through a hotel parking garage! And of course we rode on many different roads, from neighborhood roads to many-lane boulevards.
The bike path enters a hotel parking garage.
Our first night out we stayed at Doheny State Beach, which had a tiny hiker/biker campsite area. There was one other cyclist there, who happened to also be on a Pan-American trip! Ryan has come from Vancouver and we expect to run into him again somewhere in Central America.
Hiker/Biker site at Doheny State Beach
The old Pacific Coast Highway
Snack time!
The next day we spent some time on the old Pacific Coast Highway. It is now only used by cyclists – and we certainly saw a lot of day riders! In the afternoon we rolled through Camp Pendleton. I have been collecting animal, and other, crossing signs and I added a really unique one to my collection: “AAV/Tank Crossing”!
We spent the night with some great Warmshowers hosts, and got to sleep in a treehouse! Our host, Steve, cooked us a delicious taco salad for dinner and homemade hot fudge sauce on ice cream for dessert. We definitely didn’t go away hungry!
A treehouse – our room for the night.
Many-laned roads on the way into San Diego. The traffic came in waves due to the lights.
The next day’s ride into San Diego was another half day (34 miles). We spent it riding along the ocean, and then cut east into San Diego. Some of the roads were busy, but we almost always had a bike lane. Somehow we managed to make 6 different left turns to make it to Matt and Kira’s house. That was pretty exciting, considering the number of traffic lanes. Since we arrived during the workday, the welcome committee consisted of two very happy dogs: Indy and Guinness.
Indy gives Daisy some love
The pile of packages waiting for us in San Diego. We now have maps for Central America!
It is funny to think we could be in Mexico TODAY! However, we’ve a few things to do first, mainly Daisy defending her dissertation. (Yay!) We’ll be travelling by plane to the east coast for a week. Before that trip, we’ll be doing a several day loop around the mountains near San Diego. When we get back, Daisy’s parents will visit with us in San Diego for a few days. We’ll get beefier tires on the bikes, and set off further south!
Although we saw many surfers, this was the only surfer crossing sign.
Riding through Palm trees.
Currently, we are in Santa Monica, just a stone’s throw from Los Angeles proper. A few days ago, as we rode through the upscale city of Santa Barbara, it really hit us how far we’ve come. Suddenly, there were palm trees everywhere! We started out in the stunted spruce trees of Alaska, and now we are riding through palm trees. This is amazing!
… and more palm trees.
It’s been an interesting few days. Mostly, we’ve been doing a lot of urban riding as the towns get larger and much closer together. Last time we updated we were in the working town of Guadalupe, staying with a wonderful host. She was so much fun to chat with that we stayed up way too late and then got a slow start the next day. We didn’t leave before getting our picture with the president though:
Photo op with the prez.
The next couple of nights we spent at State Beach hiker-biker sites, and really enjoyed chatting with some of the other cyclists. We met two cyclists from Victoria, BC (a city we really enjoyed riding through), and just had a great time with them. They were so positive and excited about every part of their trip, from the roads to the wildlife to the people they met. We also met a German family traveling with a 12-year-old and a 14-year-old down the coast. They carried a giant, three room tent with them.
A million dollar view for $10 each.
We also spent an afternoon playing on a perfect beach.
cold water?
Fun in the sun.
We built a ‘castle’ and watched the waves take it away.
Bicycle roundabouts at UC Santa Barbara.
In Santa Barbara we ventured off-route to find a grocery store, and ended up getting really distracted in what appeared to be a giant downtown open-air mall. There were people shopping everywhere; it was like an ant nest of consumer activity. While we stopped to drink a cup of coffee I saw a distracted driver almost hit someone in the crosswalk, and then a distracted cyclist run into another cyclist. Their bicycles got caught on each other in some awkward configuration, but neither fell down.
Crazy mansions along the beach in Malibu.
Yesterday we rode nearly 80 miles to enter Santa Monica, at the edge of the Los Angeles metro area. It was quite a day. We woke up at 5:30 am to be on the road at first light, and we watched the sun rise behind the mountains as we pedaled along the ocean. It was wonderful, and calm. There were already surfers everywhere preparing for their day on the waves. As we got closer and closer to LA things got busier and busier. More towns, more people, more lanes on the highway. For the most part, we had sufficient room on the shoulder. As we approached Malibu, however, cars were parked in the shoulder to facilitate surfing access, so we increasingly had to claim an entire lane of the highway. Miraculously, nearly all the traffic was very courteous and politely changed lanes to accommodate us. One car honked and the driver yelled at us with colorful words and a single prominently displayed finger. You can guess which. He even pulled over in front of us to yell some more, which certainly took far more time than moving over in the lane would have! We just ignored him, and carried on.
Just as the traffic started to get really stressful, we had a stroke of fantastic luck. A power line was down on the main highway ahead, so they were not allowing any cars through… but bikes were ok! We had the entire 4-lane highway to ourselves for 3 blissful miles.
The four-lane highway all to ourselves!
After the cars re-entered, traffic was still lighter and we had a stressful but safe ride to the Santa Monica bicycle path. It was a great path – sandy beach on both sides and row after row of volleyball nets.
Awesome bicycle path in Santa Monica.
We rolled through the busy and opulent streets of Santa Monica to our host house for the night. We are staying with Greg, my friend from college, and his two roommates for two nights to rest, recoup, and plan our next two weeks. Thanks guys!