Author Archives: Daisy

Three days in the desert.

We have been so lucky to spend the last three days riding through a green desert. That rainstorm that rolled through a few days ago has set the desert to bloom! We have had some more unique experiences along the way, including camping behind a 24-hour tire store and cafe, and an amazing wild campsite in the desert.

We also hit 6000 miles!

We also hit 6000 miles!

 There are about 225 miles of isolated road between the towns of El Rosario (where we last updated) and Guerrero Negro (where we are now). Originally we had planned to take four days in this section, but we ended up doing it in three because of the placement of small towns for resupply.

Looking out at the desert.  Pre-bloom.

Looking out at the desert. Pre-bloom.

A cactus on our first climb - in the fog.

A cactus on our first climb – in the fog.

Our first day out of El Rosario was tough. There was a steep, long climb that we tackled in the morning despite the persistent fog. The views from the top had us exclaiming in delight for quite a while, until the following climbs stole our breath back. We are still leap-frogging with Antonie and Tyler, which has been very fun. On this day Antonie found one of Jason’s sandals that had fallen off his bike and landed in the middle of the road. With a groan, Jason turned around to search for the other sandal. Miraculously, he found it only a mile back, and about 15 feet off the road. Phew!

The boulder fields of Catavina.  Huge!

The boulder fields of Catavina. Huge!

I swept off our sleeping spot with a 'broom'.

I swept off our sleeping spot with a ‘broom’.

We spent that night in a very small town without an electrical grid. We asked the police-officers in town about a place to camp, and the owner of the 24-hour tire store offered the grounds behind the shop. We set up on a cement pad among barking dogs, but they quieted soon after. It was one of our most restful nights in Mexico yet! Somehow, despite Jason’s near-miss with sandal-loss, I lost my sandals here. They fell off at some point while I fastened and refastened my bags for carrying more water. Drat drat drat!

Our free campsite behind the 24-hour tire store.

Our free campsite behind the 24-hour tire store.

The next day was even better. We awoke to a heavy mist that had coated our tent. Because we had left the rainfly off, the water had gotten in and dripped onto our sleeping bags too. No worries, at lunch we hung everything to dry on the guardrail of the road. In the desert sun it dried in under an hour. The days riding was wonderful: we had no idea the desert could be so full of life. Flowers, cactuses, plants sprouting from every crack. We saw vultures, hawks, and hummingbirds. A few photos:

The stunning, green, road ahead.

The stunning, green, road ahead.

Super giant cactus.

Super giant cactus.

Um, I'm not sure this is really a desert!

Um, I’m not sure this is really a desert!

Yet another valley.

Yet another valley.

Our desert campsite.  Complete with vulture.

Our desert campsite. Complete with vulture.

That night we camped off the road next to one of the giant cacti. We were careful to stay away from the many spines surrounding us! We took showers in the desert from our water bottles, and cooked dinner as the sun set. Just as we were getting ready to eat there was a big ‘splat’. Uh oh. The vulture that had been on the cactus above us had pooped! Of course, I (Daisy) got hit by it and Jason didn’t. What luck! Our final day out of the area was half interesting and half boring. The last 35 miles were on the straightest, most boring road you can imagine. The scenery on either side was flat and completely devoid of plant life, but we powered through and arrived at the town of Guerrero Negro. We like our camp spot here (clean bathrooms and showers), and are looking forward to our next stop on the Eastern side of the peninsula. There have been rumors of great beaches and camping, so we will see soon.

The view for miles and miles today.  Mind-numbing.

The view for miles and miles today. Mind-numbing.

A few more photos for the road:

All our stuff drying while we eat lunch.

All our stuff drying while we eat lunch.

Spot the real kitties.

Spot the real kitties.

Baja California is full of surprises.

Also, full of puppies.

Also, full of puppies.

It has only been a few days since we last updated, but we are having so many adventures and new experiences each day that it is worth another update so soon. Also, while we have internet!

Unexpected wine country

Unexpected wine country

We are currently in the small town of El Rosario, about ¼ of the way down the Baja California peninsula. Our overwhelmingly positive impression of Mexico persists. This area is a study of contrasts: the hills are often stark and boulder-strewn, while the towns are lively and packed with businesses. There is a long agricultural valley with fields of tomatoes, prickly pear cacti, brussel sprouts, and strawberries. There are herds of goats in the hills and cows in the valleys. When we camp there are chickens poking around in the dirt, dogs with puppies, cats, and all manner of insect life. When we go shopping we are amazed at the low prices. A mango was 2 pesos here: 15 cents .

Jason at the taco stand.

Jason at the taco stand.

Remember that last time we updated was in Ensenada, at the beginning of town. We headed away from the tourist strip to find some authentic tacos, and then braved the crazy city traffic to get out of town again. The cars and trucks were all very nice, but the buses were insane! They are privately run, and pick people up anywhere along the route, so they constantly swerve and stop and go again. It was quite an adventure getting out of the city, but we made it.

The tacos.

The tacos.

Crazy bus alert!  There were buses in many colors.

Crazy bus alert! There were buses in many colors.

That night we stayed in an amazing camping area. It was about $6 US per person, and we were given full run of a swimming pool / resort area with rows of picnic tables, a large pool, showers (that kind of worked, sometimes), and a central camping area. We stayed there again with our friends Antonie and Tyler. Antonie has this wonderful book called ‘Mexican Camping’ that details all of these places. Thank goodness for that book!

Huge pool just for us.

Huge pool just for us.

The next day we climbed out of the valley where we had camped and headed back down towards the ocean again. We stopped for lunch in the small town of San Vicente where we again had tacos and also discovered Mexican bakeries and fruit stores. There are so many delicious things for so cheap! We ended up buying 5 small loaves of bread, a large piece of banana bread, and two giant cookies for $4 US. For touring cyclists, this is happiness.

At the end of the day we have salt lines everywhere from the sweat.

At the end of the day we have salt lines everywhere from the sweat.

That night we camped in another swimming / camping area, but a much smaller one that wasn’t in the book. There was a whole pack of dogs / puppies running around that were very cute, but also very shy. There are so many street dogs here, since no one spays or neuters their animals. It is actually very sad, since none of them are looked after very well and there are just so so many. It makes me miss the service and guide dogs that we raised.

The shelter where all four of us stayed dry during the rainstorm.

The shelter where all four of us stayed dry during the rainstorm.

Shitos car wash.  Looks like the car in front came to the wrong place.

Shitos car wash. Looks like the car in front came to the wrong place.

Hurricane Simon passed us over that night. It rained buckets, but we stayed dry under a shelter. The road the next day had flooded areas, and we sometimes had to rush through the puddles to avoid getting seriously splashed by the passing vehicles. In some places the road was completely underwater, and in some places schoolkids were just swimming about in the deep mud puddles! Obviously, this area is not equipped for downpours.

 

Aftermath of rainstorm.

Aftermath of rainstorm.

We had planned to stay for a night in a camping area just outside of the city, but the access road was so underwater that cars couldn’t even get through. After discussing with our camping buddies A and T, we decided to push on to the next town of El Rosario. The riding was great all the way to town: a gentle tailwind, very low traffic, and barren but beautiful scenery. Sure, there was a big hill to climb, but it was just fine!

En route to El Rosario.  We caught up to our friends A and T again!

En route to El Rosario. We caught up to our friends A and T again!

Long, straight roads.  Very little traffic.

Long, straight roads. Very little traffic.

Bruno, our all-night watchdog.

Bruno, our all-night watchdog.

Last night we camped behind a restaurant on the outskirts of town, and were guarded all night long by the owners tough-looking but very sweet dog Bruno. Today we are resting and enjoying all that this little town has to offer. For example, Jason just used the bathroom in the local jail! Tonight we might even stay in a hotel so that we can take some much-needed showers. The next stretch is through the Vizcaino desert for about 200 miles. Don’t worry though, there are some water stops and campgrounds there at good intervals.

One more shot of Jason with the beautiful Northern Baja scenery.

One more shot of Jason with the beautiful Northern Baja scenery.

 

Mexico: Even better than we expected

So far, we love cycletouring in Mexico. Folks are overwhelmingly friendly, the road has been good, the scenery has been stunning, and everything is so cheap! Ok, so we are only on day three now, but these are our first impressions. With any luck, they will hold for the next three months.

The Baja in its stark beauty.

The Baja in its stark beauty.

We crossed into Mexico at the small town of Tecate. On the US side, there is no town to speak of, but there is a lively little town on the Mexican side. We were a bit confused at the crossing, but once the guards heard about our trip and how long we would spend in Mexico we were quickly ushered into the tourist office to get our visas. The official there instructed us to fill out forms, pay the fee, and return the paperwork for our visa. Before we knew it, we were proud owners of 180 day tourist visas for Mexico.

Also, the guard who helped us was watching Miley Cyrus videos from years ago when she still worked for Disney. It was hilarious.

Our first hotel room in Mexico.

Our first hotel room in Mexico.

In Tecate, we found a reasonable hotel room with Wifi and air conditioning for $26. It was so exciting for us: our first hotel of the trip, and in Mexico no less! From there, we explored on foot and found the famous bread store: El Mejor Pan de Tecate (The best bread of Tecate). Inside, there were rows of delicious pastries for about $1 each. So yummy!

 

El Mejor Pan de Tecate.

El Mejor Pan de Tecate.

We had real Mexican food (no yellow cheese) for dinner, and were quickly back at the room by dark. We were very tired!

The next day was our first day of real Mexican roads. For the most part, there was a wide shoulder. When it disappeared the cars and trucks were courteous, and often gave us a thumbs-up or slowed down to yell encouragements out the window. We were surprised at how enthusiastically we were welcomed. We had heard this road was bad from other touring blogs, but it was nothing like we expected. Perhaps the road has been improved in the last year.

At the top of the climb for today.

At the top of the climb for today.

Mexican houses in austere landscape.

Mexican houses in austere landscape.

We even met two more touring cyclists! Tyler and Antony found us sitting in the shade of a convenience store, and they recognized us from our blog. They too have come from the far north, so there was much to talk about. We agreed to meet them in our destination town to camp together.

DSC03511 DSC03489

As I said before, the scenery was great. It was stark and dry, but beautiful. The temperature was hot (93) but not too uncomfortable. We ate tacos in town, bought water, and camped for free with our new friends. After an extravagant day of meals out, we tallied our total expense: $18US. Lucky us!

Evening in camp with our new friends.

Evening in camp with our new friends.

A lovely sunrise.

A lovely sunrise.

It was a quiet night for us, but I woke up many many times to check on the bikes and everything else.  It is always like this my first night in a new situation.  Camping in Mexico certainly qualifies as such!  In the morning we watched a beautiful sunrise and had breakfast with our new friends before setting out for the city of Ensenada.  The riding was easy – mostly downhill – and we are now taking care of internet things before heading south again.  We hope to meet up with them for camping again tonight in the town of Santo Tomas.  We really liked spending time with them!

Back on the road in the morning.  In the background: bizarre hotel rooms on the hill.

Back on the road in the morning. In the background: bizarre hotel rooms on the hill.

Finally, Mexico tomorrow!

Well folks, it has been a slow couple of weeks here on the Philtrons Pedal South, but worry not – the excitement is beginning again!  After two full weeks off the bicycles, we finally started riding again today.  Tomorrow we will cross the border into Mexico.  We are so excited to speak Spanish for the next year!  Just to get you back in the groove, I will write a quick note about the last two weeks.

Daisy all ready for her defense.

Daisy all ready for her defense.

A dramatic sunset back in Pennsylvania

A dramatic sunset back in Pennsylvania

We spent a full week back on the east coast so that I (Daisy) could officially complete requirements for my Ph.D., and defend my dissertation.  We spent time with family and friends, got our teeth cleaned, and really enjoyed the small town feel of State College, PA in the early fall.  After this trip is over (what?!  this trip will end someday? ) we plan to get jobs back here.  Thank you so much to Jason B. for hosting me for three days, and to Nidhi and Shweta for hosting us both for three days.

The Phils on Mission  beach.

The Phils on Mission beach.

Heading out into the surg.

Heading out into the surf.

Once back in San Diego, my parents met us for a fun-filled five days on the beach.  They rented a little beach bungalow, and we were true tourists.  We visited historic Old Town San Diego, made the trek to Palomar Observatory, spent a day at SeaWorld, and body boarded in the surf.  It was an amazing time, and we are glad that they could fly down and share this time with us.  Instead of telling too many stories, I include photos.

At first I was scared, but then I loved it!

At first I was scared, but then I loved it!

We loved body boarding1.

We loved body boarding.

200 inch telescope.  Oh my!

200 inch telescope. Oh my!

Jason approaches the giant observatory

Jason approaches the giant observatory

Daisy's parents enter SeaWorld

Daisy’s parents enter SeaWorld

Notice these tan lines.

Notice these tan lines.

Today we got back on the road.  Finally!  We spent the whole morning running errands before picking up our bicycles from the repair shop.  We usually do our own maintenance, but the bikes needed their complete drivetrains replaced: front and back gears, and chains.  This is enough work that it was worth us to pay $30 to get everything installed without us spending tons of time on it.  The guys at the bicycle shop were great, and helped us with some electrical work on our power generating hubs too. We now have the ability to charge via USB while we ride.

A busy day riding across San Diego.  This city is very full of infrastructure.

A busy day riding across San Diego. This city is very full of infrastructure.

We spent all afternoon riding across town (30 miles) to our host’s house.  It was busy, urban riding in hot conditions (90 degrees today!).  Somehow, we remained comfortable despite the heat.  Our hosts are wonderful – they made us guacamole burgers and shared many stories with us.  They have done some travelling in the Baja Peninsula and gave us many hints that we are sure to use as we head south.  Tomorrow!  With any luck, we’ll be in Ensenada in a few days and we can post for the first time from Mexico

Can you guys which of these is the new bottle?

Can you guess which of these is the new bottle?