Category Archives: other cyclists

Posts which mention other cyclists.

We finished riding the Baja, and then went snorkeling.

We went snorkeling in almost-too-perfect waters.

We went snorkeling in almost-too-perfect waters.

It has been nearly a week since we last updated, and in that time we have criss-crossed the mountains on the Baja Peninsula, endured some agonizingly straight roads, and stayed in some very interesting places.  These places included a very welcoming RV park, and cement pads outside of two different elementary schools.  We reached La Paz near the bottom of the long Baja peninsula after nearly 1000 miles of desert riding.  In La Paz we were welcomed by two amazing hosts: Jerry and Celine.  These two not only put us up for three nights, and fed us delicious dinners and breakfast, they also hooked us up with an amazing snorkeling tour in the waters around La Paz.

I will just briefly include a few photos from our last few days before La Paz.

We camped near two elementary schools.  In this picture, we are set up on a basketbal court.

We camped near two elementary schools. In this picture, we are set up on a basketbal court.

We passed through some lovely mountains during an early-morning climb.

We passed through some lovely mountains during an early-morning climb.

We navigated many stretches of roadwork, where all cars were diverted to a parallel dirt road.

We navigated many stretches of roadwork, where all cars were diverted to a parallel dirt road.

Sunrise in a small Mexican town.

Sunrise in a small Mexican town.

Jason en route to the Marine Park.

Jason en route to the Marine Park.

Now, on to the main story of the post: our amazing snorkeling trip.  Six of us, the Philtrons, Tyler, Menno, Kate, and Spencer, joined a father-son guide pair (Leo and Israel) on their boat.  We headed out to the Marine national park of Los Islotes to snorkel with stunning fish and friendly sea lions.  It was doubly incredible because there were so many schools of brilliant fish of all types, and the sea lions were inquisitive, playful, and not at all hesitant to swim right up to us.  On numerous occasions they swam within two feet of us and frolicked endlessly with each other.

The sea lions were not shy at all, and would swim right up to us.

The sea lions were not shy at all, and would swim right up to us.

Approaching Los Islotes Park

Approaching Los Islotes Park

So much life here!  Look at all the bird poop.

So much life here! Look at all the bird poop.

Underwater life.

Underwater life.

Multiple sea lions frolicking under in a deep water area.

Multiple sea lions frolicking under in a deep water area.

So so many fish!

So so many fish!

This is the perfect beach, truly.

This is the perfect beach, truly.

After that, Leo and Israel took us to a picture perfect beach for more snorkeling.  While here we saw numerous puffer fish and even a zebra moray eel.  It was another incredible spot.

Our crew on the picture-perfect beach.

Our crew on the picture-perfect beach.

We stopped two more places before the day was out: a coral reef for more snorkeling, and a spot just offshore where the whale sharks are known to stop and feed.  Sure enough, we found some whale sharks!  We were able to jump in the water with them and swim alongside, but the water was so murky that there were no good pictures to take.  You’ll just have to trust us that the whale sharks are big animals!

The entire crew from the trip.

The entire crew from the trip.

Our absolutely incredible hosts in La Paz: Jerry and Celine.  Thank you!!

Our absolutely incredible hosts in La Paz: Jerry and Celine. Thank you!!

After the trip was over we were all exhausted.  Our incredible hosts picked us up from the marina and took us back to their house for home-made chicken curry and apple crisp.  La Paz really is heaven!

After a final good night of sleep, we packed up the next day and left to catch the ferry to Mazatlan, where we are right now.  The ferry terminal was about 12 miles north of town, and there were no signs guiding us there.  Luckily, there was really only one possible road and we had no problem locating the terminal.  The boat was somewhat industrial, and we stashed the bicycles in a weird room full of switches and control mechanisms.  It seemed secure though, so we didn’t worry about the bikes at all.  The ride to Mazatlan took about 18 hours, during which we alternately napped in comfortable chairs and slept in our tent on the deck.  Thanks for the Dramamine Mom, neither of us got seasick!

About to board the Baja ferry to Mazatlan.

About to board the Baja ferry to Mazatlan.

Sunset from the ferry was a lovely spectacle.

Sunset from the ferry was a lovely spectacle.

Now we are relaxing for the afternoon in Mazatlan while we gather supplies for the road ahead.  We found a reasonably priced hotel right on the boardwalk in old town with FOUR beds, wifi, AC, a pool, and tons of character.  All for less than $15 each.  We love Mexico!

We made it to paradise, but the stingrays got here first.

This is paradise.

This is paradise.

It has been another great stretch of riding since we last updated.  Although the days blur together, our highlights include meeting and camping with four more touring cyclists, reaching the Sea of Cortes and spending a rest day in the small town of Santa Rosalia, and camping on the beach in one of the most scenic locations we could imagine.  Of course, the next night Jason got stung by a stingray in a similar beautiful beach, but he is ok and we will tell you the story.

Leaving Guerrero Negro (where we last updated) the road took us southeast for the following three days.  They were easy riding days along flat, straight roads through green desert.  On our first day out we met with Menno, Kate, Spencer, and Tanya.  They are from the Netherlands, Canada, Canada, and Germany respectively.  Menno started in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!  We have been camping with these folks every night since.  We stayed in a very nice campground one night, in front of a half-built hotel another night, in an actual hotel for two nights, and on the beach for two more.  The company is great, and it’s been really fun to have so many cyclists around to share stories with.

Our new friends, exploring in Santa Rosalia

Our new friends, exploring in Santa Rosalia

Our first tarantula sighting.

Our first tarantula sighting.

We have  a new term for the kind of rest we get here: Mexico sleep.  It means that you mostly slept through the night, except for the random and unpredictable noises that woke you up all night long.  For example, we almost always hear dogs barking or fighting, roosters crowing, car music, truck engine brakes, etc.  We are getting used to it though, and it’s always fun to see what kind of animals visit the tent in the morning.  Sometimes it’s a horse, and sometimes it’s a chihuahua.

A friend we made in the small town of Mulege. He rode with us all over the pueblo.

A friend we made in the small town of Mulege. He rode with us all over the pueblo.

During our day off in Santa Rosalia we spent as much time as possible relaxing.  There were chores to do too, however.  We bought a Mexican pre-paid cell phone to send texts and make calls.  It was cheap, and will be useful to us.  We shared a hotel room with Tyler for two nights, and it was a relief to not set up or take down the tent!

New phone!  These nice folks helped us with all the details.

New phone! These nice folks helped us with all the details.

Paradise has black labs to play fetch with.

Paradise has black labs to play fetch with.

After we left Santa Rosalia it was a shorter day of 50 miles to Bahia Concepcion, our intended stop for the night.  The sight of the perfect beach was a little mindboggling.  Tyler negotiated a decreased camping fee for the group, and we all went swimming.  It was stunningly  beautiful and the water was warm. We had a moment where we realized we had just pedaled there from Alaska… we had arrived in Paradise!

Our camping spot in paradise

Our camping spot in paradise

Sunrise the next morning.

Sunrise the next morning.

We liked Paradise so much that we decided to stay on the same bay for another night, but move about 15 miles down the road and find a different beach.  Our new beach was called Playa Buenaventura, and it had a little restaurant, an abandoned hotel, and another gorgeous beach.  We were all a little low on food and water, but the lady at the restaurant was nice and made us all huevos rancheros.   Then the owner got home from the store, and she was nuts.  She came into the hotel yelling about all sorts of stuff and we almost felt like we were trespassers instead of tourists.  She immediately made us tally up everything we owed, told us we couldn’t eat dinner there, and got upset when I asked if we could at least buy some eggs to eat later.  Oops.  Her husband came in and calmed things down a bit by telling us there were clams on the beach that we could go find and eat by shuffling through the sand.

Poor Jason soaking his foot from the sting.  Apparently hot water neutralizes the poison.

Poor Jason soaking his foot from the sting. Apparently hot water neutralizes the poison.

Tyler, Jason and I all went out and started clam-searching.  We found nothing, but Jason got stung by a stingray! It hurt him a lot, and we had heard that such stings can hurt for a month.  He was pretty shaken up, but luckily the owner’s husband and some other patrons at the restaurant knew that the poison could be neutralized by holding the sting spot in very hot water.  The cook was able to heat us some water, and we got a nervous Jason sitting down with his foot in a big pot.  He was so tough!  He held his foot in that hot water for a very long time until it was bright pink and waterlogged, but no longer hurting from the poison.

At one point we had to move him outside and heat more water for him on our camp stove because the owner had apparently hit her compassion maximum for the day and decided we couldn’t get any more hot water from the restaurant. We were blown away by her rudeness, but were happy to tip the cook for all her help.   The whole group of cyclists rallied to help entertain Jason while he soaked his foot, and we pooled our resources to make a delicious group dinner.  By the time we went to sleep, his foot didn’t hurt at all.

The next day Jason was able to ride to the town of Loreto 55 miles distant, and we took a hotel to let him rest a bit more.  We are so grateful that the proper treatment was administered, and that he is now ok.  We have less than a week left on the Baja peninsula, and we are glad Jason can enjoy it free of pain!  Next stop: La Paz.  We hope to take a snorkeling excursion with a tour company and take a few more relaxing days in Paradise.

There are ton more photos that I want to share that didn’t fit into our narrative.  I will put them here at the bottom!

Sunset in Santa Rosalia.

Sunset in Santa Rosalia.

 

In some places the road is still flooded from the hurricane.

In some places the road is still flooded from the hurricane.

Still many desert blooms.

Still many desert blooms.

The desert here is far from boring.

The desert here is far from boring.

Mountains soon!

Mountains soon!

More scenery awaits.

More scenery awaits.

 

Evidence of destruction from Hurricane Odile.

Evidence of destruction from Hurricane Odile.

Daisy and Kate (one of our cycling friends) got coffee at a truck stop in these charming mugs.

Daisy and Kate (one of our cycling friends) got coffee at a truck stop in these charming mugs.

 

Palm trees everywhere.

... and more palm trees.

Riding through Palm trees.

Currently, we are in Santa Monica, just a stone’s throw from Los Angeles proper.  A few days ago, as we rode through the upscale city of Santa Barbara, it really hit us how far we’ve come.  Suddenly, there were palm trees everywhere! We started out in the stunted spruce trees of Alaska, and now we are riding through palm trees.  This is amazing!

Riding through Palm trees.

… and more palm trees.

It’s been an interesting few days.  Mostly, we’ve been doing a lot of urban riding as the towns get larger and much closer together.  Last time we updated we were in the working town of Guadalupe, staying with a wonderful host.  She was so much fun to chat with that we stayed up way too late and then got a slow start the next day.  We didn’t leave before getting our picture with the president though:

Photo op with the prez.

Photo op with the prez.

The next couple of nights we spent at State Beach hiker-biker sites, and really enjoyed chatting with some of the other cyclists.  We met two cyclists from Victoria, BC (a city we really enjoyed riding through), and just had a great time with them.  They were so positive and excited about every part of their trip, from the roads to the wildlife to the people they met.  We also met a German family traveling with a 12-year-old and a 14-year-old down the coast.  They carried a giant, three room tent with them.

A million dollar view for $10 each.

A million dollar view for $10 each.

We also spent an afternoon playing on a perfect beach.

cold water?

cold water?

Fun in the sun.

Fun in the sun.

We built a 'castle' and watched the waves take it away.

We built a ‘castle’ and watched the waves take it away.

Bicycle roundabouts at UC Santa Barbara.

Bicycle roundabouts at UC Santa Barbara.

In Santa Barbara we ventured off-route to find a grocery store, and ended up getting really distracted in what appeared to be a giant downtown open-air mall.  There were people shopping everywhere; it was like an ant nest of consumer activity.  While we stopped to drink a cup of coffee I saw a distracted driver almost hit someone in the crosswalk, and then a distracted cyclist run into another cyclist.  Their bicycles got caught on each other in some awkward configuration, but neither fell down.

Crazy mansions along the beach in Malibu.

Crazy mansions along the beach in Malibu.

Yesterday we rode nearly 80 miles to enter Santa Monica, at the edge of the Los Angeles metro area. It was quite a day.  We woke up at 5:30 am to be on the road at first light, and we watched the sun rise behind the mountains as we pedaled along the ocean.  It was wonderful, and calm.  There were already surfers everywhere preparing for their day on the waves.  As we got closer and closer to LA things got busier and busier.  More towns, more people, more lanes on the highway.  For the most part, we had sufficient room on the shoulder.  As we approached Malibu, however, cars were parked in the shoulder to facilitate surfing access, so we increasingly had to claim an entire lane of the highway.  Miraculously, nearly all the traffic was very courteous and politely changed lanes to accommodate us.  One car honked and the driver yelled at us with colorful words and a single prominently displayed finger. You can guess which.  He even pulled over in front of us to yell some more, which certainly took far more time than moving over in the lane would have!  We just ignored him, and carried on.

Just as the traffic started to get really stressful, we had a stroke of fantastic luck.  A power line was down on the main highway ahead, so they were not allowing any cars through… but bikes were ok!  We had the entire 4-lane highway to ourselves for 3 blissful miles.  

The four-lane highway all to ourselves!

The four-lane highway all to ourselves!

After the cars re-entered, traffic was still lighter and we had a stressful but safe ride to the Santa Monica bicycle path.  It was a great path – sandy beach on both sides and row after row of volleyball nets.

Awesome bicycle path in Santa Monica.

Awesome bicycle path in Santa Monica.

We rolled through the busy and opulent streets of Santa Monica to our host house for the night.  We are staying with Greg, my friend from college, and his two roommates for two nights to rest, recoup, and plan our next two weeks.  Thanks guys!

 

Volcanoes! Up, down, and around Crater Lake.

We made it!  We are about 1/5 of the way through the journey...

We made it! We are about 1/5 of the way through the journey…

Riding by lava flows.

Riding by lava flows.

Oregon continues to amaze me.  Truly, it’s not just Portland hipsters and the sunny coast – it is long miles of uninterrupted forest roads, volcanic peaks, lava tubes, and the spectacular Crater Lake.   Since we last updated, near Bend, we have climbed up three mountain passes, spent a night in a hotel (wow!), circumnavigated Crater Lake, reached 4000 miles, saw a river disappear underground into a lava tube, and descended into the heat of southern Oregon.  We also saw another of my math friends from college, and said goodbye to Jason’s cousin Ray.  Next up: a ride through the coastal mountains to the ocean, and then more miles south.  Before then, some stories and lots of pictures!

Oregonian Chipmunk.

Oregonian Chipmunk.

Bend, OR is one of my all-time favorite towns.  As I said in a previous post, it is jam packed with friendly folks.  Also, delicious pizza.  We left early to climb out of Bend and into the Cascade Lakes region: a high-altitude series of lakes jam-packed with campgrounds.  Originally we had hoped to do a long day through this region, but we decided to stop early and enjoy the afternoon at Little Lava Lake.

Cooling off has never looked this good.

Cooling off has never looked this good.

Narrowly averted disaster.

Narrowly averted disaster.

The next day we got up early because Ray wanted to try for a super long day of 85 miles.  The morning riding was wonderful in the cool of morning on roads with almost no traffic.  We nearly had a mechanical disaster when we realized Ray’s rear rack was falling off.  Finally, we got to use our supply of spare parts and tools!  It only took a few minutes and a spare screw before we were back on the road.  After about 60 miles of riding we arrived in the small highway town of Chemult and decided to call it a day.

Absurd drink size prices.

Absurd drink size prices.

The town was a riot, and because there was no campground we got a two-bedroom room in the local lodge.  It was actually really nice, and the small-town grocery store had a decent selection of food along with some bizarre decoration.  The travel center across the street had a horrifying pricing scheme for fountain soda drinks.  See picture!

Chemult general store.

Chemult general store.

 

 

 

 

 

We climbed up and up and up into Crater Lake National Park.  Crater Lake is found in the collapsed cone of the ancient Mount Mazama.  About 7,700 years ago the mountains cone collapsed and formed the deepest lake in the US.  It fills only from rain and snow, and thus has some of the clearest, purest water in the world.  We stayed two nights in the hiker-biker sites, and spent a day riding around the lake.  The circumnavigation was amazing for two reasons: first, the scenery was truly stunning, and second, one of my best friends from college was there to ride with us.  Thanks for meeting us Greg!  Also, thanks to our cyclist friend Brian who we met in British Columbia and again in Crater Lake.  I hope we see you again soon on the coast.

Four cyclists riding around Crater Lake

Four cyclists riding around Crater Lake

Our bicycles at the very first overlook.

Our bicycles at the very first overlook.

The pumice desert en route to Crater Lake.

The pumice desert en route to Crater Lake.

Pacific Crest Hikers!

Pacific Crest Hikers

The hiker-biker site was an absolute riot.  It was jam-packed with Pacific Crest Trail hikers.  This scenic trail traverses 2,600 miles from Mexico to Canada along the mountains.  The thru-hikers form remarkable communities and are always super friendly.  Ray had a blast talking with them both nights, and I think they really enjoyed hanging out with him.  Jason and I both hit the sack early, exhausted from the 5,000 feet of climbing that riding around the lake required.

Ray and Aunt Cathy, getting ready to hit the road.

Ray and Aunt Cathy, getting ready to hit the road.

Ray’s mom came to get him from Crater Lake so that they could spend some time in the Redwoods.  We certainly missed him on the loooong descent off the volcano.  The descent lasted for nearly 30 miles!  It was mostly up and down through small towns on tiny roads until today, when we rolled into Ashland.  The most notable occurence was in a tiny town, where an old man told me (Daisy) that I am ‘starting to look like Justin Bieber.’  What?!

Ashland is this little town is known for its nearly year-round Shakespeare festival and a high concentration of dreamers, poets, and artists.  In short, we are so happy to be here!  We are being hosted by a wonderful couple on their farm.  They gave us some great advice on our next few days of riding.  Next, we will head a little north and straight west to reach the Oregon coast.  Coming up: Coastal glory, more hiker-biker sites, and giant redwood trees.