Last time we wrote we had a shocking announcement: we were going to quit riding south, and instead fly all the way to the bottom and bike back up. Surprisingly, Cancun marked the halfway point for our trip. We had ridden 9,220 miles to get there and had about 9,000 and some miles left to go. After crunching the numbers we realized that we would get to the far south during their spring. It would be bitterly cold, and the mountain passes would still be snowed in. As a result, we decided to fly south from Cancun and hit the summer season while riding back north.
Now, we are actually in Punta Arenas, the southernmost Chilean city. We are so happy that we are here in the summer, because even now it is so so cold! It reached a high of around 50 degrees F today, and that certainly didn’t include the windchill from the 20 mph ‘breeze’ that mostly blew directly in our faces as we rode to town from the airport. Needless to say, we are glad we packed the extra down coats!
So let me fill you in, just a tiny bit, on what it took to get here from Merida on the Yucatan Peninsula. We spent three days cranking out 200 flat, boring miles to Cancun. Highlights from these days were… finishing a great book on tape, and reaching Cancun. Once in Cancun we checked into a hostel that was essentially 15 bunk beds in one big room. Surprisingly, it was very quiet at night and we had a nice time. We also took the bikes to a local bike shop that packed them up for us in airline-approved cardboard boxes. It was very worth it for us, considering that it cost less than $15 per bicycle, and that last time we did it ourselves we needed 4 hours to finish the task.
We also cut a deal with a taxi guy who had a car big enough to fit the bikes. He would give us 100 pesos off the fare to the airport if we dealt with him directly and didn’t call the taxi company. Great! We made a plan for when he would pick us up. The next morning we were early for pickup, of course, which made the other taxi guys on our street start to get excited about stealing some business. We spent an amusing 15 minutes with them as they tried to figure out how they could get 2 bike boxes, 2 big boxes of gear, 4 small bags, and 2 people all into a sedan. Apparently, the taxis aren’t that expensive if you speak Spanish and can get the drivers into a bidding war! We could have gotten to the airport for 1/3 cheaper than advertised rates. Eventually though, the original driver came and got us in his big car.
In the US, getting a bicycle on a plane is a huge deal. When we flew to Alaska we had to pay $400 to get all our gear on with us. For this trip we were dreading the cost to get them all the way to Patagonia. To our amazement, however, there was zero cost at all. The agent at check-in just advised us to put more tape on our boxes to reinforce them, then sent everything down the conveyor belt. That’s right – no fee for oversized luggage, no extra fees, nothing. We were in awe.
The flight was great too – a massive airplane that was only about 2/3 full. We each had an interactive screen, they offered us wine, and fed us two meals. I think I may stop flying domestically in the US and only fly to Argentina and Chile from now on!
We arrived in Punta Arenas around 6 am, and spent the next three hours in a sleep-deprived haze as we re-assembled the bicycles in the airport. It was with great excitement that we finally opened the doors and rode off into Patagonia. Immediately we noticed a few things: it was cold, rugged, and windy. It was also wildflower season, but we were too cold and tired to get our cameras out. We’ll get some photos for the next post, we promise.
We have been in Punta Arenas for close to three days, getting prepared for the next leg of the trip. Patagonia is a frontier land that is over-run with backpackers. The cities have dozens of hostels, some of which allow camping in the yard. We wandered the city, visiting museums and walking the waterfront.
We also took an afternoon tour one day to see a penguin colony. The penguins were adorable, and we decided they were worth the scary trip on dirt roads in a van driven by crazy man.
Next we will ride North, mostly in Chile but also dipping a bit into Argentina. The roads are quite isolated here, and Wifi hard to come by, so don’t be worried if the next update is slow coming.
Wow! So glad to see you in Punta Arenas. We were there. I liked it lots.
What airline did you fly on that was so great? Ray had the same experience returning from Ecuador last summer on the Ecuadorian airline (on the plane — great service, great environment and great food) and we had the same experience with bikes in Europe. Shame on American airlines! Adorable penguins and pretty wildflowers at the refuge — can’t wait to see more!
I am really enjoying your blog. Thankyou and safe riding. Look forward to more stories and photos as you ride north.
Punta Arenas was a Sister City to Bellingham when I was there in the mid ’90’s on a trip around South America. I delivered a plaque from Bellingham to their City Hall. The winds were howling and the tenders couldn’t get back to the ship. We were stuck on shore for hours. I say stuck because it was blowing sand and sea salt in my face to the point that I just stayed in hotel to wait it out. Jeez Louise!
You both look radiant and love your tales and photos. Hugs, me
Alice, you’ve always got the best stories. That is so neat about delivering a plaque to them! Luckily, we have hit a few days of calm winds and took advantage of them to ride through the flat lands. I hope you are doing well up there in the far north.
Hi Jason and Daisy, So glad to see your new blog … wow, 9200 miles … I would be dead by now … LOL … so glad you are doing well, enjoying the scenery and hoping it warms up some for you, too … I love love love your pictures … please keep sending them … and will be waiting for some pics of flowers… I love them… Have a safe biking trip … so glad I can read and keep up with how you are and where you are … keep riding. I am amazed … From your cousin Kendra
Brrrr…cold just looking at the photos. What a rude awakening after Mexican heat. But the penguin photos are worth it! So fun to follow you!
Hugs, Millie
I’ve been to that same penguin colony. Pretty neat. Good luck with riding in the wind. I’m sure you’ve heard it will be fierce.
It’s been a few years since I’ve traveled long distance by bicycle, but it has always been true that bicycles fly FREE on International flights but cost a LOT within the States. Hint: to make packing easy, get two old boxes at a bicycle shop – boxes that new bikes were delivered in that is – and sleeve them together over your bike. that way you don’t have to break your bike down so far.
Hola¡!! Están realmente lejos, en todo el sur. El paisaje parece grandioso, pero creo q los mejicanos son más exóticos que los chilenos. Espero no pasen mucho frío. Me alegra ver que pudieron pasar unos días con los padres de Daisy. Disfruten¡! besos
So happy you decided to fly South. Nice to be in summer weather even at 50 degrees. We are expecting snow this afternoon here in NJ. I love seeing your photo blog. The Penguins look like they are having fun.
Keep on riding. Be safe. Much love, Aunt Kaye