In this entry we travel from our start point, Ushuaia, to the next town, Tolhuin. We enjoyed spectacular scenery and spent two nights wild camping. Everywhere we go the locals and other travelers are fascinated with and excited by our set-up. They take pictures of us as we pass by, they stop their cars to check if we need anything, and once we even got interviewed on video for a local business owner!
Day 1: Ushuaia to camping near Cerro Castor (34 km)
Our first day of riding had finally arrived! The weather looked to be good for the next three days, so we left our AirBnB a day early. Our hosts were absolutely lovely and came to see us off.
The road wove along the hillside above town for about five miles before we reached the famous “gates” of Ushuaia. There was a very nice bike path all through town, which was a little more up and down than the highway, but a lot less busy! When the bike path ended we were at the very edge of town. We stopped for a snack and to take photos of the welcome towers. While there we met a trio of Australians also starting out on bicycle tour. They told us we were traveling light and that felt good!
After leaving the city we were truly in the Martial Mountains, which are steep and jagged and rocky. The tree line seemed outrageously low for us Coloradans, but the conditions here are harsh. The trees are scraggly and covered in lichen. The rocks are covered in thick moss. Honestly, it feels like a cold Lopez Island!
We climbed for the next five miles or so until we were in a huge glacial valley with peaks on either side. When we saw a fancy lodge on the side of the road… we decided to stop and drink hot chocolates and eat French fries! They had a raging fire inside and were serving extremely fancy lamb meals to tourists and locals alike. We were a bit shocked to see the menu price – over $40/person (US dollars)! Our hot chocolates were much more affordable.
We stopped for the day around 3pm, since there was a lovely campsite next to a small river. Also, it was threatening rain. It rained for several hours starting at 5pm and continuing into the night. We cooked up a dinner of pasta with red sauce and scrambled eggs, played hearts (A is winning), and fell asleep cozy in the tent.
Day 2: Camping near Cerro Castor to Camping at Rio Tuerto (49 km)
This day was magic. We awoke to sun on the tent and a forest practically glowing with morning light and leftover rain. For breakfast we had watery oatmeal that no one liked, and then we were riding.
We climbed up and up to the famous pass of this island: Paso Garibaldi. We had gorgeous mountain views behind us and then a view of the lakes to come ahead of us. You know we can never resist a good pass sign.
On the other side it was fast zip down to a small settlement at the end of Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake). We decided to splurge on a big lunch at a restaurant called La Casona 2, which had a big yard for playing and a big fire they used to roast lambs. Lunch took a very long time to prepare (over an hour!) but we were happy to be warm. We laughed because the kids’ hamburger meal was once again just a huge burger patty with a pile of fries. H promptly grabbed a few pieces of the table bread and made it an American-style hamburger sandwich. A cut hers up and dipped the pieces in ketchup (of course). We were stuffed by the time we were done, but we had 23 kilometers left to ride.
Luckily it was downhill with a tailwind! We zoomed along until we were near a spot another cyclist had marked as ‘trees with space for tents.’ It was near the river Tuerto, which actually was a much more appealing spot. We set up camp off the road behind a pile of gravel, next to a picturesque valley.
H found a giant stick and was delighted for a long time waving it around; miraculously no one was injured. Both girls spent a stretch of time collecting flowers and grasses to ‘clean’ our shoes. It was a delightful evening and it didn’t even rain!
Day 3: Rio Tuerto to Tolhuin (27 km)
We thought today would be easy, but we woke up and had noodle legs. Maybe it was just me though, since I had run out of coffee! GASP!
The riding was mostly up and down along the massive Lago Fagnano. Each little stream that joined the lake required a descent and then a climb. As we approached town we detoured down to the lake’s edge to see a small wildlife preserve (ducks and other birds) and take a picture with the Tolhuin sign. Many of the towns here have these big signs and it’s so fun to take pictures with them.
After the sign the road was dirt/gravel and straight up. In a fit I demanded we stop and eat a snack. After nearly emptying the remainder of our snack bag (potato chips, marshmallows, cookies, and gummy bears) we continued on.
Our destination was a very famous bakery, La Union. It welcomes touring cyclists from all over the world as they pass through, offering them bunks to sleep on in the basement past towers of flour. We are not staying there, since it’s better for our family to find private accommodations. However, we did stop for nearly two hours to eat! We had empanadas, huge sandwiches, donuts, chocolate, and finally coffee. It was incredible and we will be back tomorrow.
For tonight we are resting out of the wind and rain that is blowing through this town. We rented a little one room cabin that is warm, cozy, and just a short walk from a grocery store. Honestly, it feels heavenly. Our next stretch to Rio Grande is less scenic and more windy, so we need tomorrow to strategize.
