Mexico: Even better than we expected

So far, we love cycletouring in Mexico. Folks are overwhelmingly friendly, the road has been good, the scenery has been stunning, and everything is so cheap! Ok, so we are only on day three now, but these are our first impressions. With any luck, they will hold for the next three months.

The Baja in its stark beauty.

The Baja in its stark beauty.

We crossed into Mexico at the small town of Tecate. On the US side, there is no town to speak of, but there is a lively little town on the Mexican side. We were a bit confused at the crossing, but once the guards heard about our trip and how long we would spend in Mexico we were quickly ushered into the tourist office to get our visas. The official there instructed us to fill out forms, pay the fee, and return the paperwork for our visa. Before we knew it, we were proud owners of 180 day tourist visas for Mexico.

Also, the guard who helped us was watching Miley Cyrus videos from years ago when she still worked for Disney. It was hilarious.

Our first hotel room in Mexico.

Our first hotel room in Mexico.

In Tecate, we found a reasonable hotel room with Wifi and air conditioning for $26. It was so exciting for us: our first hotel of the trip, and in Mexico no less! From there, we explored on foot and found the famous bread store: El Mejor Pan de Tecate (The best bread of Tecate). Inside, there were rows of delicious pastries for about $1 each. So yummy!

 

El Mejor Pan de Tecate.

El Mejor Pan de Tecate.

We had real Mexican food (no yellow cheese) for dinner, and were quickly back at the room by dark. We were very tired!

The next day was our first day of real Mexican roads. For the most part, there was a wide shoulder. When it disappeared the cars and trucks were courteous, and often gave us a thumbs-up or slowed down to yell encouragements out the window. We were surprised at how enthusiastically we were welcomed. We had heard this road was bad from other touring blogs, but it was nothing like we expected. Perhaps the road has been improved in the last year.

At the top of the climb for today.

At the top of the climb for today.

Mexican houses in austere landscape.

Mexican houses in austere landscape.

We even met two more touring cyclists! Tyler and Antony found us sitting in the shade of a convenience store, and they recognized us from our blog. They too have come from the far north, so there was much to talk about. We agreed to meet them in our destination town to camp together.

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As I said before, the scenery was great. It was stark and dry, but beautiful. The temperature was hot (93) but not too uncomfortable. We ate tacos in town, bought water, and camped for free with our new friends. After an extravagant day of meals out, we tallied our total expense: $18US. Lucky us!

Evening in camp with our new friends.

Evening in camp with our new friends.

A lovely sunrise.

A lovely sunrise.

It was a quiet night for us, but I woke up many many times to check on the bikes and everything else.  It is always like this my first night in a new situation.  Camping in Mexico certainly qualifies as such!  In the morning we watched a beautiful sunrise and had breakfast with our new friends before setting out for the city of Ensenada.  The riding was easy – mostly downhill – and we are now taking care of internet things before heading south again.  We hope to meet up with them for camping again tonight in the town of Santo Tomas.  We really liked spending time with them!

Back on the road in the morning.  In the background: bizarre hotel rooms on the hill.

Back on the road in the morning. In the background: bizarre hotel rooms on the hill.

Finally, Mexico tomorrow!

Well folks, it has been a slow couple of weeks here on the Philtrons Pedal South, but worry not – the excitement is beginning again!  After two full weeks off the bicycles, we finally started riding again today.  Tomorrow we will cross the border into Mexico.  We are so excited to speak Spanish for the next year!  Just to get you back in the groove, I will write a quick note about the last two weeks.

Daisy all ready for her defense.

Daisy all ready for her defense.

A dramatic sunset back in Pennsylvania

A dramatic sunset back in Pennsylvania

We spent a full week back on the east coast so that I (Daisy) could officially complete requirements for my Ph.D., and defend my dissertation.  We spent time with family and friends, got our teeth cleaned, and really enjoyed the small town feel of State College, PA in the early fall.  After this trip is over (what?!  this trip will end someday? ) we plan to get jobs back here.  Thank you so much to Jason B. for hosting me for three days, and to Nidhi and Shweta for hosting us both for three days.

The Phils on Mission  beach.

The Phils on Mission beach.

Heading out into the surg.

Heading out into the surf.

Once back in San Diego, my parents met us for a fun-filled five days on the beach.  They rented a little beach bungalow, and we were true tourists.  We visited historic Old Town San Diego, made the trek to Palomar Observatory, spent a day at SeaWorld, and body boarded in the surf.  It was an amazing time, and we are glad that they could fly down and share this time with us.  Instead of telling too many stories, I include photos.

At first I was scared, but then I loved it!

At first I was scared, but then I loved it!

We loved body boarding1.

We loved body boarding.

200 inch telescope.  Oh my!

200 inch telescope. Oh my!

Jason approaches the giant observatory

Jason approaches the giant observatory

Daisy's parents enter SeaWorld

Daisy’s parents enter SeaWorld

Notice these tan lines.

Notice these tan lines.

Today we got back on the road.  Finally!  We spent the whole morning running errands before picking up our bicycles from the repair shop.  We usually do our own maintenance, but the bikes needed their complete drivetrains replaced: front and back gears, and chains.  This is enough work that it was worth us to pay $30 to get everything installed without us spending tons of time on it.  The guys at the bicycle shop were great, and helped us with some electrical work on our power generating hubs too. We now have the ability to charge via USB while we ride.

A busy day riding across San Diego.  This city is very full of infrastructure.

A busy day riding across San Diego. This city is very full of infrastructure.

We spent all afternoon riding across town (30 miles) to our host’s house.  It was busy, urban riding in hot conditions (90 degrees today!).  Somehow, we remained comfortable despite the heat.  Our hosts are wonderful – they made us guacamole burgers and shared many stories with us.  They have done some travelling in the Baja Peninsula and gave us many hints that we are sure to use as we head south.  Tomorrow!  With any luck, we’ll be in Ensenada in a few days and we can post for the first time from Mexico

Can you guys which of these is the new bottle?

Can you guess which of these is the new bottle?

The Newest Dr. Philtron!

More on our time in State College  a bit later, but we just want our readers to know that Daisy successfully defended her dissertation today!  She actually had a good time, and Jason made some absolutely delicious Nanimo bars for the event.

Success!  Thanks to my adviser.

Success! Thanks to my adviser.

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Nanaimo bar production

 

Beautiful mint bars!

Beautiful mint bars!

 

A four-day loop in the mountains around San Diego

On Palomar mountain

On Palomar mountain

We are, quite literally, spinning our wheels here in San Diego.  Ha!  But really, we have too much time in San Diego while waiting for my (Daisy’s) defense date for finishing my PhD.  After spending a few days resting and getting work done, we decided to hit the road again.  We spent four riding days in the mountains around San Diego, getting very close to Mexico in the process, and we loved it.   The coast has been good, but it is the mountains that we truly love.  This was a great side trip, despite the fact that it was during a heat wave!  This post is longer than usual because it was such a great four days.  If you want, just scan the pictures and you will be convinced!

Sunrise in San Diego

Sunrise in San Diego

We left San Diego well before dawn on our first day out, knowing that the heat would only get more intense later in the day.  Even at 4:30 am, it was about 70 degrees.  It was wonderful to ride on the empty streets and watch the stars get brighter as we moved away from the city. We stopped for `lunch’ in an orange orchard before 10am, when the temperature was already uncomfortable.  Luckily, we were carrying a LOT of water, and we would need it.

Our route took us up a 4,500′ climb over less than 10 miles along a dirt road.  You read that right: it was awesome! The road criss-crossed a steep hill overlooking a valley, eventually leading us into scattered trees and finally a full forest.  It was hot, and steep.  We stopped frequently for rest in every bit of shade we could find.  Once it got really hot (95+) we laid down in the shade of a tree and slept for two hours.  A passing thunderstorm woke us up, cooled us off, and got us back on the road.

Resting in any patch of shade available.

Resting in any patch of shade available.

The view down from midway up the climb.

The view down from midway up the climb.

Jason on the dirt road.

Jason on the dirt road.

That night we stayed in a beautiful, if mostly abandoned, state park.  For some reason, I decided to do a load of laundry in our camp bucket after dinner.  It was a terrible idea!!  I got nearly 40 mosquito bites before rushing into the safety of the tent.  We were sound asleep by 8 o’clock.  What a great day!

A treat.

A treat.

We slept for nearly 12 hours.  We ignored the alarm we had set and enjoyed the relative cool of our high altitude camping spot.  It was a stunning ride along the side of the mountain, and we were amazed at how far away the valley floor seemed.  Eventually, it was time to descend, but we took a much more gradual (and more paved!) route.  It was wonderful.  We finished the downhill portion at Lake Henshaw, a resevoir that is chock-full of wild birds, even if it is quite low on water.  The resort on its shore also had a BBQ restaurant where we treated ourselves to lunch as soon as they opened.

Lake Henshaw in the distance.

Lake Henshaw in the distance.

The climb away from the lake was gradual.  We passed through a few small towns where we stopped for cold drinks and groceries.  The plan had been to ride to another state park campground, but we ended up stopping a few miles early to camp alongside another reservoir.  The campground called itself a park, with a ‘resident ranger’, but we are quite certain it was privately owned.  After we paid we asked if there was a problem with raccoons.  They said yes.  Then we asked if there were food storage containers.  They said no.  So…. where should we store the food?  In your car, they said.  Ha!  The campground host advised us to “eat it all” once we pointed out the obvious fact that we didn’t have a car  In the end, we stored our food in a (clean) trash can with a very heavy rock on top. Regardless of our amusement with the campground host, the lake was beautiful.  We enjoyed watching hummingbirds, bats, herons, and other birds.

Clouds rolled in during the afternoon.

Clouds rolled in during the afternoon.

In the distance, the desert.

In the distance, the desert.

A lovely spot to camp for the night.

A lovely spot to camp for the night.

Our third day was just as great, if that’s possible.  When we woke up the sky was perfectly clear.  By the time we finished breakfast, a giant stormcloud covered the sky.  We started riding with the smell of rain everywhere, but somehow we avoided getting wet.  Our route was wonderful: views over a wide expanse of desert, nearly non-existent traffic, and we slowly climbed through various ecosystems.

Stormclouds over the desert : stunning!

Stormclouds over the desert : stunning!

Loooong views down the canyons.

Loooong views down the canyons.

Descending towards our oasis of a campground.

Descending towards our oasis of a campground.

Then we reached the top, and proceeded to descend for what seemed like forever.  It was beautiful.  We brushed up against the US-Mexico border on the way to our campground.  It was so difficult not to take the turn and start riding the Baja right then!  We resisted though, and ended up in a county park that was like an oasis in the desert.  For $5 each we had literally the entire place to ourselves.  That night we heard coyotes yipping and crying eerily outside the campground, but we slept well.

Finally, the next day we rode into San Diego.  The first few hours of riding were through dry scrub brush with low traffic, but we were quickly engulfed by San Diego sprawl.  Our ride ended near Jason’s friends’ house, where we chilled for hours reading books until they got off work.  We had a wonderful dinner with them (Thanks Colin and Jaime!), and slept well in their attic.

Next time we pass here, we'll take the turn for Tecate and cross into Mexico.  !!!

Next time we pass here, we’ll take the turn for Tecate and cross into Mexico. !!!

As I write this, I am in the San Diego airport getting ready to fly out east.  We will be in State College for one week so that I can defend my dissertation and finally complete requirements for my PhD.  After that, we will spend a few days visiting with my parents in San Diego and then finally, finally enter Mexico October 3 or 4.  I am looking forward to the next two weeks!