Last week we attempted to ride the ferry north to Caleta Tortel on standby and we did not make it on. In the end, this was not too disappointing, since we instead took a lovely 3-day trip up and through Torres del Paine National Park. It is hard to express how beautiful of a place it is. Not only were we happy to have gone, now it is on our list to come back to for a multi-day hike around the towers. Tonight we will be getting on the ferry with our original ticket reservation. It is hard to believe it will be most of another week until we are back on our bikes!
The Philtrons with the Torres del Paine in the background
When we didn’t get on the ferry last week, Daisy began to plan a multi-day trip to see the park by car (*gasp*, car, I know!). We reserved a campsite for two nights, park tickets for the Mylodon Cave and Torres del Paine, and a boat tour to Grey Glacier. It was both fun and very strange to be traveling by car instead of by bicycle. As we were bumping along the gravel park roads, speeding up the steep hills, and kicking up immense dust clouds, I was happy we weren’t cycling!
The Mylodon Cave Park was, as you might guess, a big cave where the remains of a mylodon were found. A mylodon is an extinct 2.5-m tall sloth-like creature. It was a pleasant stroll to the cave and then a brisk hike up to an overlook. We felt the view was grand, but we were just getting started.
While driving north towards the park we stopped at several overlooks to view the majestic mountains and pristine lakes. It was not lost on us that the very strong winds were not a problem in a car. Eventually we arrived at the park’s edge and saw the famous towers. It was a truly amazing sight. The rock formations rise 8,000 feet from the foreground. We soaked in the view of the towers from different angles throughout the 3-day trip.
West of the towers is Grey Lake, named for its color due to the glacier-fed silty water. Glacier Grey is at the end of the 17 km lake, and is viewed up close during a 3-hour boat tour. The water was calm and we saw all three faces of the glacier. We were told the height of the ice face is about 90 feet above water and up to 300 feet below the water. It is immense and the pictures don’t do it justice. I especially enjoyed when the boat pulled up next to an iceberg, and one of the workers got out a long harpoon to hack off a piece of ice to bring aboard the boat for photos and to cool down drinks.
The Grey Glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice FieldThis was right before Jason was told to not touch the ice
The area is filled with lakes and rivers – water seems abundant. (Or else it is melting ice that is abundant!) We took advantage of the many, many viewpoints during our drive through the park. By the end, we were leaving A and H in the car for our quick strolls to beam in happiness at the views.
Back in Puerto Natales we had a day to repack and prepare for the ferry journey. We revisited a few of our favorite sites: a playground, a cafe, and the big grocery store.
500 km: along the Strait of Magellan (north of Punta Arenas)
In this section we ride some small days, some big days, some windy days, and some rainy days from the big city of Punta Arenas to the tourist outpost of Puerto Natales. Jason and I rode this stretch 11 years ago in a quick 3 days, but this time we lingered in the tiny hamlets and spent time in isolated refugios. We saw an incredible amount and variety of wildlife, we battled overwhelming sidewinds, and we ate so many potato chips. We also achieved our first 500 km of riding and took a celebratory photo. This is another long entry, so pace yourself.
A wants us to use her writings again here, and H also asked to be included. To really round out the story, I also include a parental note each day.
Day 19: Punta Arenas to Chabunco Camping (27km / 17 mi)
A: Today was a very hard day. We left early but the wind was *way* too strong. We made it halfway before the wind kicked up and became dangerous. We tried to wait it out on the beach, but when we went back up the wind was the same, or worse. Then we actually went back two kilometers to a safe but dirty place to camp.
Papa took an Uber back to a minimart to get water while me, Mama, and H got the tent set up. Well, tried anyway. We were forced to take the tent down because it was too windy. Then when Papa came back we managed to set the tent up.
For dinner we had eggs and pasta and we accidentally spilled some on the sleeping pad.
Today I have now told you about all the rudely disappointing things that happened today. Bye! See you later!
H: I played video games. It was awesome. When we were riding the wind blew us over. It was scary. We walked around our campground. It was tiring.
Wooden playground at the north end of Chabunco park
Parental note: Today was what we called ‘full of pickles’. Similar to our very first day of riding way back in Ushuaia, we left our lodging a day early to catch a weather window, but the first day wasn’t great. At first the wind was at our backs as we flew out of the city, but after lunch it became a raging, unsafe sidewind.
We stopped for a rest on the side of the road. A boat operator docked nearby and came to speak with us. He shared that just over the fence there was a sheltered spot on the beach where we could rest. He showed us how to walk through the gate and past the small pier that the penguin tour company uses. When we asked if we were going to get trapped there by someone closing the gate he told us not to worry because ‘todos somos hermanos aqui.’ We are all brothers here. It was such a nice thing for him to do, to help us.
We spent the next couple hours sitting in the sun on the sheltered beach, playing in the sand and skipping rocks. A nice tour bus driver gave the girls some fresh bread filled with savory ham. The wind continued to blow. It was over 30mph all afternoon. Reluctantly we looked at our options and decided we had to turn back.
A free camping place 2km back had enough shelter to spend the night, but no water. We walked the two kilometers back up the hill.
In the end we spent a free, peaceful night overlooking the Strait of Magellan. It was a good lesson in making the right decision, even if that meant turning around and walking back. We called it a day full of pickles. We got ourselves into many a pickle (raging sidewinds, no water, nearly broken tent), but we also got out of them all.
Sunrise at Chabunco
Day 20: Chabunco Camping to Sheep-herding refugio (53 km / 33 mi)
A: Today was long and hard. For breakfast I had 3 breakfast cookies. We got on the road by 7:30 o’clock. There were tons of cars and trucks but almost no wind. For lunch we stopped at a gas station and got empanadas and sandwiches. I got chocolate milk, and both me and H got ice cream sandwiches. Then we got toilet paper and left. You had to pay to use the bathroom here!
After lunch we kept riding except the wind was worse, but again the traffic was also better. Before lunch there was a big gravel stretch and I think we all hoped there wasn’t another one.
Finally we made it to the refugio and it was pretty/super clean and didn’t smell at all. We set up the sleeping pads and then me and H played while Mama and Papa cooked dinner. Dinner was lentil, carrot, and rice. It was okay. I also had a Nutella and cheese sandwich. That’s all for today! Bye! See you later!
H: I woke up really early. It felt bad. I read Diary of a Wimpy Kid: the Getaway. It was amazingly awesome. We started riding into a NorthWest wind. It was awesomely hard. We rode into a 23 mph headwind for 20km and got to this amazing refugio. It was super hard. I played Stardew Valley video games. It was so awesome. I had to hand it to A.
Parental note: Overnight the wind stopped completely, and when I woke at 6am it was incredibly peaceful. The sun was up already, but the waters of the strait were still. It was tough to get the girls up and moving, but we were on the road by 7:15am to take advantage of the calm before the wind picked up again.
Unfortunately, there was a long stretch of roadworks that slowed us down. For about 10km we bumped slowly along a dirt side track, uphill, into the headwind. We were covered in dust and exhausted by the time it was over. Our dreams of a fast morning road were well and truly squashed.
We rolled into a highway rest area after 30km and immediately purchased everything we saw. We also saw some of our first rheas: a flightless bird that lives here on the Patagonian steppe. The males raise the young in large groups, and we watched such a family wander past the rest area.
It was only 20km to the next opportunity for rest, but it was almost entirely uphill and of course the wind was raging. It was safe to ride however, so off we went. As the girls noted, it was really tough riding. Our destination was a small refugio built by the Chilean government. We think its main purpose is to shelter sheep herders on long sheep drives, but cyclists use it in the summer months. It was in perfect shape: clean and cozy. It made for a perfect and peaceful night.
We saw dozens of these flightless birds (rheas) today
Day 21: Refugio to Morro Chico (75km / 47 mi)
Morning at the refugio
A: Today was hard. We had breakfast cookies for breakfast then got on the road. Soon we made it to Villa Tehuelches. It was nice there. Me and H played on the giant playground and then we all had empanadas. There was a cute black and blanco cat that really wanted to eat some of our empanadas.
Since the wind was going to be strong tomorrow we had to go forty more kilometers. That was hard and boring. Near the end we saw a giant lump of land that looked like there was supposed to be a castle on it. We rented out a room in a restaurant to stay the night. There were only 3 beds so H and Mama had to sleep together. Before the person cleaned the room there were a bunch of dead flies on the floor. Gross.
That’s all for today! Bye! See you later!
A very friendly cat!
H: Today we biked 30km to a town, played on a playground, but it turned out we had 47 more km. It was hard that the next day mama had leg pain.
If it reads “mountain top” it is probably a summit sign, right?
Parental note: Obviously this was a hard day, but it was also an excellent day. We saw a lot of wildlife (rheas, flamingos, guanacos), we chatted with a lot of cyclists, and we took advantage of a weather window to get past the worst of the windy places.
As the kids said, we rode 30km to a small village before lunch. There was a lovely playground where the kids played while we ate large quantities of empanadas from a nearby food stand. It was a popular stopping spot, and we chatted with motorcyclists from the US, a lone cycletourist from San Francisco riding south, and another from France riding the same direction as us.
We also were able to check the wind forecasts. The afternoon had ok wind and the next day had positively awful, unsafe wind. There was no choice for us but to ride the remaining 47 kilometers to the next place with indoor lodging. You see, we really require a strong windshield for our tent to survive, and in these barren pampas no such thing exists. We knew from another cyclist’s blog that the lone business 47km to the north had a room for rent. A quick message to the owners confirmed it was available and off we went.
The 47km were challenging but safe riding. The restaurant owner showed us the rental rooms that hadn’t been used in some time, so there were many dead flies on the floor and it was generally unkept. She spent an hour cleaning it and making the beds for us. The girls were very mature to recognize that despite the dead flies that were there originally, this was a good place to sleep after a clean up. In the end it was very comfortable and we even took hot showers and recharged our devices.
Day 22: Morro Chico to Villa Renoval (35km / 22 mi)
A: Today was pretty good. We had breakfast cookies for breakfast then got on the road around 8. We were only going 35 km today! Yay! Mama’s legs hurt. She was slower than usual. We had to stop 5km away from town for our snack, oh gosh! We rented a little cabin and got lunch at the restaurant while they were cleaning it. For lunch at the restaurant Mama and Papa got Menu, which was soup with beef and fried potatoes. H got a giant ham and cheese sandwich, and I got eggs with fries. It was yummy.
Next we relaxed in our cabin since they had finished cleaning it and eventually went out to get fry bread and muffin. Me and H also tried ice cream but I’m pretty sure mama and papa actually ate most of it.
Me and H played on the playground a bit and me and H never really had a real dinner. But for dinner mama and papa had lentils. That’s all for today! Bye! See you later!
It’s a playground, not a grass jungle
H: Today I woke up the second Mama was about to wake me up, eat breakfast, and started riding. For the first 20km it was pretty easy, but the last 15 were harder. We got there, ate lunch, and got our cabin.
“Yum”
Parental note: After yesterday’s hard push, my legs felt like ground meat. I was also exhausted, so we limped the 35km to the tiny hamlet of Villa Renoval. The hamlet is built around a central grassy park with a small playground. The entire area was extremely overgrown with tall grass. A crew of workers spent the day (it was Saturday) weed-whacking the entire thing minus the playground area, which of course delighted the children.
The hamlet has only two businesses: A mini-market that rents rooms and a cabin, and a restaurant. We of course spent time at both! Our cabin was a rustic little two bedroom with a gas stove that sheltered us from the afternoon wind that came through with huge gusts, and from the rain that came overnight. I took a two-hour afternoon nap, then slept a long night too.
Day 23: Villa Renoval to Puerto Natales (66km / 41 mi)
A: Today we made it to Puerto Natales. We went 65 km today. For breakfast we had French toast. I also had chocolate milk cold. We started riding and zoomed past the first half of the day. We stopped for snack around 30 km in. I had Cheetos and fake oreos and a chocolate coconut bar. Then we stopped in the grounds of a fancy hotel to filter water. Then we biked some more of the gradual hill and eventually stopped at a border station for lunch. For lunch I had two canned tuna and mayo sandwiches. They fueled me just enough to get to town and our place. By the time we made it down the rest of the hill it was raining so hard it felt like hail on my cheeks. It was frozen out. But when we made it to town the rain stopped! Uhhhggrr!!!
Our place is nice but the view out the window is horrible. Me and H played videogames while mama and papa went to the store and made dinner. Dinner was meat mushroom sauce with pasta. The meal was okay.
Now I’m done writing, bye! See you later!
PS me and H practiced washing the dishes.
The journalist and her Papa, on the road
H: I woke up at 8:00, ate breakfast, and started riding. We had a lot of downhill, then uphill, then it started raining. It was a false flat uphill with a headwind with rain for 10km. Then there was downhill. We made it to town, got our hotel, and I played videogames.
Give it to H, the girl knows how to photobomb!
Parental note: We made a family decision to push all the way to Puerto Natales today instead of splitting the distance over two short days. The morning was glorious: we slept in until after a rainstorm had finished, then rode mostly downhill in calm conditions through an interesting landscape. There were trees and hills and fields with horses.
Halfway through the riding day we got water from a small stream at an extremely fancy hotel called ‘Llanuras de Diana’. We enjoyed the climb into the hills afterwards until the afternoon. That’s when the wind started up, then the rain. We descended to town (a port town) with pouring rain and of course, a headwind.
Because we had waited until the last minute to secure lodging, our choices were pretty slim. We could have wandered around town looking for a room in a hostel, but I chose to book a small apartment during lunch to give us a destination. It was the right choice, since we arrived cold and wet, but as A mentioned the views out the window are pretty abysmal. Just a gravel parking lot with a house under construction. But hey! It’s warm, safe, clean, and just a few blocks from a grocery store.
Tomorrow we will try and get on a ferry heading north. We have reservations for the same ferry a week from today (it only goes every six days), but cyclists are often able to travel on standby. Since we are here early, we are going to try!
Between Porvenir and Punta Arenas we’ve had a series of rest days where we have been waiting for a good weather window while getting a few chores done. We also had the pleasure of a penguin tour! After almost a week of not riding we are getting antsy. And by we I mean Daisy and Jason, not A and H. They seem perfectly happy to spend the day playing video games without a care in the world.
Examples of A + H free time over the past week
We spent four nights in Porvenir, which we found to be a charming small town. Everyone seems to pass right by on their way to points further south (or north) and at most spends a quick meal or a single night here. We enjoyed eating at a local restaurant for lunch and having sandwiches for dinner. We visited the town museum and learned about some of the local history – from the four main tribes of native folks (who were sadly all killed or died of disease), to a local gold rush in the 1880s.
On our way out of town we took a quick detour to the Laguna de Los Cisnes Natural Monument. Once there we saw fossilized stromatolites. These are mounds of crusty cyanobacteria that represent an ancient life form from early in Earth’s history, billions of years ago. They are distinct mounds made of layers of bacteria that produced oxygen. Many looked like misshapen doughnuts, and broken spots showed holes inside the ‘dough.’ It is an amazing piece of living history which is only found in a few places on Earth. However, all that amazing information and understanding came from the internet, as there was not a single informational sign or label at the lake – simply a wooden boardwalk.
Fossilized stromatolite mounds at Laguna de Los Cisnes
We felt a real sense of accomplishment on the ferry, as we left Tierra del Fuego and crossed the Strait of Magellan. We arrived in Punta Arenas almost exactly 11 years after our first visit, which was the beginning of our Philtrons Pedal North journey to Colombia. Last time we were here we took a bus ride to see penguins, but those penguins no longer visit that area. This time we took a boat tour to Isla Magdalena to see a larger colony of Magellanic Penguins. We were lucky that it was not a windy day and the water was calm. However, that didn’t stop first A and then H from vomiting during the 80 minute ride to the island. Luckily they felt better afterward and were ready to do the 1-hour walk on the island.
We walked past hundreds, or thousands, of penguins, and enjoyed seeing them walk, swim, sunbathe, and honk their heads off. I noticed that some of the chicks were quite plump by this point – and looked larger than their parents! Human visitors are required to remain 2 meters back from the penguins. The penguins had no fear or qualms about walking towards or between us visitors, resulting in us having to stop and move backwards to get out of the way and give them space. The penguin population on the island is estimated at 60,000 breeding pairs. There are also (way too) many Kelp Gulls on the island, which produced additional noise and, well, bird poop.
Walking through a town is always an adventure and Punta Arenas is no exception. Within a block from our small apartment we can walk past an abandoned lot/building, a small convenience store, a hostel, and a fancy house that looks like it could be from Boulder, CO. The Plaza de Armas has these amazing, large trees. They are the same kind that we’ve occasionally seen out in the countryside in a very wind-swept form. In this case they have grown up strong and wide with the wind protection afforded by the buildings. A bunch of the parks also have what we’ve been calling “gumdrop trees.” We got a good laugh at how some of them have bad hair-cuts.
We are excited to get back on the road heading north! I wonder how much of the route ahead will evoke memories from a decade ago.
This is the stretch we have been stressing about since long before the trip even started. It is 230km with almost no services, and a border crossing at 90km that requires us to shed *all* fresh foods and legumes. This area is notorious for the kinds of winds that usually would prompt wind warnings in the US but people here are simply accustomed to them. There were 50km of rough dirt roads, and at the very end there were brutally steep climbs around Useless Bay. That is literally the name of the body of water (Bahia Inutil). In this entry (which is long so prepare yourself) we choose a good-enough weather window and we go for it. Many adventures follow.
Rio Grande, Argentina to San Sebastián, Chile (93 km / 58 mi)
Bike path out of Rio Grande
Our longest day ever! Today was an unusual wind day in this region. It started out completely calm, so we were up and riding before 8am. There was a thick fog over Rio Grande, so we were happy to ride along the smooth bike path, separated from the main road. Once town was done… so were the things to look at. There was just flat land all around us for most of the day.
The wind stayed calm for the first 30 or so kilometers, and we didn’t stop for lunch until 50 kilometers were behind us. By then the wind was whipping and we had to shelter behind a small hill to eat. Even so, Jason accidentally swatted a fly straight into Henni’s mouth which was very unpleasant. A kind cyclist stopped and gave us some packs of energy goo, which were much appreciated later as we battled the wind and there were a few hills to ride over.
We fought the growing headwind up and limped our slow way forward. The wind was manageable but unpleasant and cut our speed from 20km/hr to 10km/hr. Despite the slow progress after lunch we reached our intended destination, a hotel on the Argentine border by 3pm. We asked after the rates and space (the place was obviously empty) and they told us they were full and could not accommodate us. WHAT?! We hypothesize they didn’t like kids. After sitting down to eat a second lunch we looked at the wind, which had switched to a brisk tailwind, we decided to cross the border and ride the additional 15km to the border outpost on the Chilean side. By eat a second lunch, I mean that we attempted to eat all of our fresh fruit, veggies, cheese, and salami which wouldn’t make it through the border crossing.
Leaving Argentina – Entering Chile!
Leaving Argentina was quick. They give you an exit stamp and send you out to no man’s land. There are 15km of mostly flat land between the two border facilities. It is occupied by sheep as far as the eye can see. (Literally thousands of sheep!) The tailwind blasted us through this area and we were downright gleeful about it. All too soon we were stopping at the Chilean border complex, which required three separate stations and lots of forms. First it was passports, then it was a temporary import form for each bicycle, then finally it was agricultural inspection. Chile is notorious for not allowing anything fresh into the country. We had already piled up the dinner we had planned for Argentina: eggs and broccoli. The border agent took those items and then trusted us when we said everything else was processed and packaged (it was). We got out of the border complex in only 30 minutes, which might be a cyclist record. Just across the street was a small border outpost made up of a hotel and a restaurant. It was a beautiful thing: warm, clean, and barely within our budget for two simple rooms and shared bathrooms. Of course, no one else was there so we enjoyed the entire game room by ourselves.
Rest day in San Sebastián
The wind was THAT strong
Overnight a strong storm blew through, turning the previous day’s tailwind into a raging headwind. The winds were forecast to be over 30mph sustained headwinds today, so we decided to stay in the hotel for another day. We lazed about reading, playing video games, and competing at foosball. For lunch we walked to a nearby kiosk serving giant sandwiches and hot dogs. It was only a half mile, but the strength of the wind against us was incredible. I’m so glad the girls are having this experience: you can’t replicate it by reading or watching videos. Trying to walk into a 40+ mph wind is an experience you never forget.
San Sebastián to soggy wild camp refugio on the side of the road (61 km / 38 mi)
Is it windy down there? No? Well, let’s go in that hole and rest awhile.
Another storm blew through overnight and the rain was forecast to linger into the morning, so we ate a relaxed and delicious hotel breakfast while waiting for the rain to stop. As we finished eating the wind was gone and so was the rain… it was straight onto the bikes!
The riding started out gently uphill, and the calm wind didn’t last very long. Within an hour it was whipping at us, but at least the sun was shining. By the time we were pedaling hard downhill just to keep up a 5 mph pace we knew it was time for a rest. We found a protected spot out of the wind (read: a grassy hole in the ground) and lazed in the sun for 1.5 hours reading our kindles. The worst of the wind had stopped by the time we continued.
At 5pm we reached the turn-off for Porvenir. This is the last place to get water for many, many kilometers, so we got a refill across the street from the construction workers’ housing. They were very nice. We also inspected two shelters for travelers that the Chilean government built some time ago. Sadly, they have been vandalized and used as toilets by passersby. They would work in an emergency, but we chose to carry on.
Typical scenery
Our weather apps said it would be calm and wind-free around 6pm so we set off happily for the final 18km to our planned camping location. The wind is so strong here that you can’t just camp anywhere – you need shelter or a wind-block, and those are few and far between. There was literally nothing for those 18km. There was, however, a brand-new paved road under construction.
We were encouraged to ride the new pavement by construction workers and everyone we met. It was fabulous! One worker even stopped to give the girls granola bars and juice boxes. When the road was cut due to a gigantic ditch under construction, a group of workers helped us carry the bikes down and across. One laughed wildly and said “Cien dolares! Cien dolares!”, joking he would charge us $100 for the help.
Partially wind-protected campsite
When we had about 10 km to go… the wind picked up again. Then it got worse. Then it started to rain. We were all in pretty sad spirits, but we had no choice but to carry on. It was with great relief that we reached the small stand of trees and another shelter (refugio) next to the road. Another cyclist had already set up his tent in the shelter, which was fine because it was in awful shape anyhow. Many windows were broken and one entire wall was exposed to the wind. We chose a spot next to a big tree that was well-protected when we set up the tent. It was cold and wet, but we ate a good warm dinner and snuggled into our sleeping bags to rest. It was such a relief to be done with that long, windy day. For the kids it was bliss… for the grown-ups the day was not over. Around 11pm the wind changed direction and yet another storm blew through. The tent was not protected from that side, and we watched as the tent poles bent in over us, nearly breaking. Jason and I jumped into action. (It was more like lumbering into action for the sleepy Jason.) We held up the tent with our backs as the wind raged and the girls slept. Ever optimistic, we settled in with our down jackets and kindles to read as the storm raged. Within an hour the gusts stopped and we went back to sleep. What a night!
Soggy Refugio to Estancia Draga sheep farm (40 km / 25 mi)
There was walking
I woke up to a calm, overcast morning. It was surreal watching guanacos wander through the nearby construction site in the quiet light. Of course, by the time the girls woke up it was raining. It was a cold rain. We decided to wait a bit for it to stop, eating breakfast and playing cards in the tent.
As soon as the rain stopped, we noted a tailwind and jumped into action. We packed and scrambled and hopped on the bikes to take advantage of any help we could get. The tailwind lasted about as long as the new pavement did. Then we were spit unceremoniously onto a rough gravel road and the side wind kicked up in strength.
We stopped in a sheltered spot for a snack, and when we got back on the bikes the wind was so strong from the side that we couldn’t safely ride the bikes. We had to walk the kilometer or so to the next turn in the road, where we found another sad and vandalized refugio. Again, this used to be such a treasure for cyclists seeking refuge from the wind and rain, but now the windows are broken and the place has a bad smell. It would be suitable for emergencies, but we still had a lot of daylight so we continued on.
Entrance to Estancia Draga
The wind was unrelenting all afternoon. Sometimes as a headwind and sometimes as a side wind. I remember pedaling uphill, in a raging headwind, on a rough dirt road at 5km an hour (that’s 3 mph) and thinking… this is better than walking at least. By 5pm we were exhausted and still 5km from the next sheltered place marked on our map. We were very slowly making progress up a big hill, and at the turn there was a sheep ranch. We decided to send Jason and H up to the gates to ask about water and a sheltered camping spot. Luckily, we were welcomed with open arms. They showed us a very lovely, sheltered spot to camp with a little outdoor kitchen and a picnic table. (Actually, it was one of the largest picnic tables we’ve ever seen!) The family had a young child too, so there was a swing the kids enjoyed. We made a big dinner of pasta and refried beans before heading to bed. It felt so good to be in a safe, wind sheltered place!
Estancia Draga to Porvenir (41 km / 25 mi)
Sheep shearing is a production!
The barking sheep dogs woke us up early, around 6:20 AM, and it was a good thing too. We needed every bit of early morning riding time before the wind started up. We ate a cold breakfast of cookies (yum!) and were just heading out when a woman came by our camp to let us know they were already shearing the sheep! There are 900 sheep on this ranch and apparently a whole crew was there to shear them during a two-day period.
In the shearing barn we were able to watch the process. The sheep were crammed into pens, and four men were lined up with electric shears along one wall. They would reach into the pens and grab a sheep, then hold them upside down and cut off the wool in one huge mat. A woman was constantly sweeping up any escaped bits. The big piece of matted wool, once freed, was shaken then crammed into a huge wooden box and stomped down by another person standing on top. It was a sight to see! What an amazing gift to be there.
The rest of the day was not so glamorous. We crawled along the dirt road for the next 28 km into another strong wind, but this time the ups and downs were so steep we had to walk over several ‘hills.’ It was pretty brutal, but we knew that at the end of the day we’d have a bed and a bathroom so we carried on. When the pavement was in sight we stopped for lunch in the shelter of a fisherman’s shack, right on the ocean water of the Strait of Magellan.
Grinding on
The fun wasn’t done even after hitting pavement – we had one more big hill to climb into the headwind. At one point I thought we were cresting the final peak before town… Then over the top I just saw another whole series of hills. A very rude word escaped my lips before I could stop it! We persevered and eventually, with great relief, cruised downhill into town. The town of Porvenir has a real ‘end of the world’ feel, even more than Ushuaia. It only has about 5,000 inhabitants. There are little minimarkets, small family-run hotels and hostels, and a single bank. The buildings are brightly colored but weathered. We went straight to the tourism office to get some help finding a place to stay. We had hoped to find a cabin with a kitchen, but as the rain started to come down we took the first hotel that had a room for four people. Hotels here aren’t like those in the US – there are a variety of bedding set-ups available and none of them are ‘two queens.’ You pay per person and kids count. We are in a lovely, bright room with four twin beds and a bathroom. Now we will rest for several days before taking a ferry to the mainland and the ‘big city’ of Punta Arenas.
Here are some pictures of our fun first day in Porvenir. We are enjoying this town!
