Category Archives: Philtrons Pedal South (2014)

Finally riding south: The isolated Cassiar Highway.

Last time we updated, we were in Watson Lake: home of the signpost forest. At this point, nearly 80,000 folks have passed through here and left a sign to mark their journey. During our rest day, we joined them and created our own sign!

Our contribution to the signpost forest.

Our contribution to the signpost forest.

It was a blast to paint the sign and chat with other groups of people doing the same thing. I may be partial, but I think our sign was the best. We also went to the Northern Lights Center that day to watch shows on black holes and on the northern lights. It was a pretty neat planetarium location, and also surprising to find it so far north.

A little bold to call your province "The best place on Earth"!

A bit bold to call the province “The best place on Earth”!

Finally on Monday we started out on the Cassiar Hwy and into British Columbia. This is the only overland alternative to the Alaska Highway, and is both less populated and more remote. There are very few services, making my parent’s help in hauling supplies and food for us even more appreciated. The scenery is supposedly stunning, but we have had quite a string of storms and rain to limit visibility. So far, we have seen eight black bears, and two foxes.

Most of the riding has been in the rain, but we don't take too many photos of it.

Most of the riding has been in the rain, but we don’t take too many photos of it.

See the fox in the background carrying a meal?

See the fox in the background carrying a meal?

One of the many butterflies along the road.

One of the many butterflies along the road.

Our first day on the Cassiar was very nice though, with sun and fluffy clouds. We rode through recently burned areas, and stopped for lunch next to a lake populated by butterflies and dragonflies.

Evidence of a 2011 fire alongside our lunch stop.

Evidence of a 2011 fire alongside our lunch stop.

We are much faster on the road when my parents carry our heavy supplies, allowing us more time in camp to relax and have family time. It also helps that we have stayed in some beautiful campgrounds. Somehow, it usually seems to clear in the evenings – even on the days that we spend hours in the rain to get there!

The view at a stunning campsite on Boya Lake.

The view at a stunning campsite on Boya Lake.

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My dad has been fishing sometimes, mostly unsuccessfully, but he did catch a tree once! Jason and I had to climb up and unhook the tree, since it was a catch and release type of situation…

Our only picture of a bear - there is usually no time!

Our only picture of a bear – there is usually no time!

The days run together on a road like this. There was only one town in six days of riding, and the road is narrow with the forest close on either side. The rain and clouds make it difficult to see, but we are constantly scanning and searching for bears ahead. Our first bear was snoozing right next to the road, and our surprised shout of “That’s a bear!” woke it up to stare at us. We have surprised other bears browsing next to the road, invisible in the dense brush. Jason got a good look at a cute little baby bear, and luckily we didn’t see momma. We have bear spray, and carry a whistle to scare them off with sound, but it can still be stressful to know there are bears all around!

A summit that we didn't notice climbing to.

A summit that we didn’t notice climbing to.

There have been a few summit signs on this highway, which is always very exciting for us. Two of these summits were so easy we barely thought we deserved a summit sign!

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Mainly, we are happy to be accompanied along this road, and are enjoying the long evenings of family time. Evenings are fun, and include chats, stories, and endless brushing of the dog.

A common evening activity is removing dog hair from the german shepherd.

A common evening activity is removing dog hair from the german shepherd.

Washing dishes, a chore that never goes away.

Washing dishes, a chore that never goes away.

What we do when we arrive in camp: EAT!

What we do when we arrive in camp: EAT!

 

A moment without rain, finally!

A moment without rain, finally!

Of course, there have been moments when the clouds lifted enough for excellent vistas. I’ll provide some photos of these too!  Even as I write this though, the rain is hitting the tent.  Yes, there is wifi in a provincial park.  Wild! As a side note – it is actually getting dark at night now, which is ironic since it is the first day of summer.

A clear moment to display Jason's silly riding outfit.

A clear moment to display Jason’s silly riding outfit.

The mountains peak out from behind the thunderclouds.

The mountains peak out from behind the thunderclouds.

Tomorrow we are taking a side trip to Stewart, BC and Hyder, AK. These twin towns are at the head of the Portland Canal, which stretches 90 miles inland from the ocean. It will be an exciting day to visit the grocery store!

Skagway, AK to Watson Lake, YK – Stunning scenery, then the Alaska Highway.

 

Riding up and away from Skagway.  It was beautiful!
Riding up and away from Skagway. It was beautiful!

It was five and a half days of riding between Skagway and Watson Lake. We loved the first two days of riding! Skagway is right at sea level, so the first order of business was climbing straight up and over the 3,292′ pass. The climb was only 12 miles long! Luckily for us, it was a breeze – literally. A very strong tailwind pushed us up and over the pass in less than three hours. I will speak a bit about the climb and the summit, since they were truly the highlights of this section.

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The railroad winds through Skagway and over White Pass.

As we climbed, we stopped often to enjoy the stunning scenery. The White Pass and Yukon Route railroad winds along across the river from the highway, and we enjoyed stopping to watch locomotives pulling passengers up the mountains. I think we saw three trains, each pulling a dozen cars of tourists! That is hundreds of people. WOW! Once I (Daisy) stopped my bicycle too quickly and Jason ran right into it and fell down. Yikes – he skinned his knee but was otherwise unharmed. I think I was a lot more shook up than he was.

The train chugging up the pass.

The train chugging up the pass.

Also while climbing we paused at an overlook… and were immediately overrun with tourists unloading from two buses. This turned out to be a blessing though, as we happened to meet a woman from State College. Small world.

We made it!

We made it!

We reached the summit, took the obligatory photo, and descended a small bit into a magical land of moonscape. That sounds dramatic, but the scenery was so different from the lushness of the coast. I will let the pictures speak:

Bicycles. Moonscape.

Bicycles. Moonscape.

 

A lake just past the summit.  It was cold here!

A lake just past the summit. It was cold here!

DSC00121The customs guy was friendly as we re-entered Canada, and we settled down for the night at a boat launch on a lovely lake. I am not sure if you (reader) know this, but I rode from Skagway to Montana by myself four years ago. This was before I met Jason. This Skagway to Watson Lake section is something I already rode, then, so it was really fun to camp exactly where I camped before. It was much much better with Jason with me this time around!

The following day we visited the historic town of Carcross.  We ate delicious date bars, drank extra helpings of the free coffee, and began a caffeinated ride out of town. We went a bit out of our way to see the Carcross Desert. It is not a real desert, but actually a small area of sandy dunes left behind by an ancient glacial lake. How neat!

The worlds smallest not-quite-a-desert.

The worlds smallest not-quite-a-desert.

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We went past the tiny town of Tagish, ate dinner at a beautiful spot on Tagish Lake, and rode toward the Alaska Highway.

Wow, the Alaska highway. For so many, this road encapsulates adventure, wilderness, etc. etc. To us, it is a parade of RV’s, campers, and semi-trucks. Don’t get me wrong, the scenery is very pleasant, but it’s not breathtaking like the Glenn Highway, the Haines Highway, or the road from Skagway. We spent a long few days ticking off the miles, watching the trees pass. We saw two bull moose, two black bears, and had a nesting pair of swallows try to scare us away from their nest.

Making dinner at a rest area before finding a 'wild camp' spot down the road.

Making dinner at a rest area before finding a ‘wild camp’ spot down the road.

The outhouse at our wild camp... we were not interested in using it!

The outhouse at our wild camp… we were not interested in using it!

The best interlude on the road was a chance meeting with another cyclist, Paul, at the grocery store in Teslin. He invited us to camp in his yard, and we spent a wonderful evening chatting with him. What a treat to have a place to camp, a shower to get clean, and to make a new friend.

On the fifth day out of Skagway we finally made it to Watson Lake!, home of the infamous signpost forest. More importantly, we met my parents!!

Reunited in the signpost forest!  We even painted a sign the next day.
Reunited in the signpost forest! We even painted a sign the next day. Photo to be included in the next post!

My parents drove up here from Bellingham, WA and will be our companions for the next two weeks while we head south along the isolated Cassiar Highway. Yes, they will carry our heavy things for us during the day, and meet us in camp each night for dinner and fun. This is so exciting for us, and we can’t wait to finally start heading south in earnest.

Internet sites are few and far between in this area, so it may be a while before we can update. Be patient our friends!

Three rest days – Haines, Juneau, and Skagway.

The tidepools outside of Haines, AK

The tidepools outside of Haines, AK

A view of Haines and the magnificent backdrop of mountains

A view of Haines and the magnificent backdrop of mountains

We have been tourists for a few days in this trio of small towns, eating from local bakeries, drinking locally made coffee and beer, and taking a spectacular boat trip along the Inside Passage. We stayed three nights with a few friends in Haines (thanks everyone!), and met a number of friendly folks.

A display at the Hammer museum in Haines

A display at the Hammer museum in Haines

Haines is nestled at the base of big mountains at the tidewaters of the Chilkat River, way up the deep water fjord of Lynn Canal. We took a day trip to Chilkoot Lake (14 miles riding each way!) to see where the salmon run and the tourists play. While we stopped to read some information about the local bears a woman approached us and asked if we wanted some fish her husband had just caught and cleaned. Well, yes, of course! She gave us two bags of fresh, plump Dolly Varden, which we later baked to perfection with some cream cheese and dill. What a special treat for us!

The next day we took the fast boat to Juneau. This special tour was a gift from my parents for our wedding, and it included breakfast on the fast boat as we watched wildlife en route to Juneau, Alaska. We saw a giant colony of Stellar sea lions, harbor seals, humpback whales, and more bald eagles than we could count. It was raining for us, but the sealife didn’t mind a bit!

Stellar sea lions swimming past our boat

Stellar sea lions swimming past our boat

Look close!  You'll see humpback whale tails.

Look close! You’ll see humpback whale tails.

 

We spent a few hours in Juneau, which was fun because we got to go to the capitol building. Apparently, it was re-purposed when Alaska became a state and has been voted the least beautiful capitol building of all 50 states! We enjoyed our time in Juneau, but a few hours was enough to see the downtown sights.

Downtown Juneau, they get four cruise ships docked here a day!

Downtown Juneau, they get four cruise ships docked here a day!

The tour included a quick trip to the Mendenhall glacier too, and we took the time to hike up as near as they allowed.

The falls next to the glacier.  Note raincoat... it was rainy!

The falls next to the glacier. Note raincoat… it was rainy!

The Mendenhall Glacier - a bit of a poster-glacier for climate change.

The Mendenhall Glacier – a bit of a poster-glacier for climate change.

 We fast-boated right back to Haines that evening, happy tourists!

 

A mostly abandoned and supposedly haunted lighthouse.

A mostly abandoned and supposedly haunted lighthouse.

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Taking the fast ferry from Haines to Skagway.

Finally, our last day of tourism was in Skagway, AK. This was another main stop on the gold trail of the Klondike Gold Rush. We enjoyed a ranger-led talk through downtown, where we learned about the colorful history of the con men, business men, and miners that passed through more than a hundred years ago. That night we stayed with a wonderful Warmshowers host who had ridden some of our proposed route in Mexico, and was happy to share advice on the road to come.

The Arctic Brotherhood headquarters - most photographed building in Alaska!

The Arctic Brotherhood headquarters – most photographed building in Alaska!

Finally, true Alaskan beer!

Finally, true Alaskan beer!

We decided to treat ourselves and get burgers and a beer sampler at the local brewery. It may have cost a full day’s budget, but it was a delicious meal.

The next day we relaxed in the morning, caffeinating sufficiently for the afternoon of riding, and then headed out for our next big stretch of road to Watson Lake. You will have to wait until tomorrow for our account of that stretch though! Thanks for reading!

Question Time – June 8

Q: How do you make sure you are going the right way and prevent from being lost? Especially if you side track to look for campsites and whatnot. Do you use an old fashioned atlas and follow a route that you mapped out beforehand? Do you look up campsites on the map or do you just find them based on signs you see on the road?

A: Luckily, up here in the far north, there is only ever one road to go down, so getting lost isn’t a problem! What we’ve been using to help guide us is The Milepost, which is an Alaska/Canada travel planner. They give mile-by-mile highlights on all the amenities and turnouts, etc., including campgrounds. Further south, in the US, we’ll use Adventure Cycling Association maps, which have turn-by-turn directions and amenities information. Further south still, we’ll probably just right down directions on paper and ask locals. I’ve read that some of the maps in South America just aren’t accurate and cannot always be trusted. At the beginning of the day we like to have an approximate destination in mind.  Also, we just ask folks along the way.  They are usually happy to help us, and sometimes even offer us a place to stay!

 

Silly display on side of road to Haines

Silly display on side of road to Haines

Q: How do you keep from scratching at your mosquito bites all the time? Seriously, itchy itchy! You must have a strategy. Inquiring minds want to know!

A: Daisy just scratches! Seriously! I try not to for 10 minutes, which is usually enough time for the main itchiness to subside. Mostly, though, trying not to get bitten in the first place is best. We’ve had good luck so far – since the weather has been cool at night most places the mosquitos haven’t been that bad.  At night sometimes we wear ridiculous bug hats.

 

The green shack near Haines Road summit.

The green shack near Haines Road summit.

Q: How far do you ride each day?

A: After asking where we are riding to and from, the next question people always ask is this one. The answer is that we aim for 60 miles on a riding day. We’ve gone as much as 79 and as few as 40 miles over the course of a full day. On previous trips we have been able to do more miles daily, but our current set-up makes more than 60 or 70 pretty difficult.  Usually, we average about 10 miles an hour and ride 6 or 7 hours.

 

Q: Aren’t you going the wrong way?

A: Well, yes, and no.  Up here in the far North we get asked this a lot, because we have spent time riding East, West, South, and North instead of just heading straight south.  We just have a lot to see!  There is plenty of time for dawdling and seeing some extra sights while we are here, and the wiggles in route have been well worth it.