Category Archives: Philtrons Pedal South (2014)

The spectacular Glenn Highway

Right now, it is the end of our fourth full day in Alaska.  We are camped behind the Glennallen town library, which miraculously has WiFi accessible from the tent.  It has been a phenomenal ride along the Glenn Highway from Anchorage.  The weather has been stunning, with clear skies to see the sweeping panoramas of mountains, glaciers, and rivers.

Sweeping views - the Glenn Highway

Sweeping views – the Glenn Highway

Because there is so much to say, I’m going to split the last four days into two posts.

May 11: Anchorage to Eagle River – 23.5 Miles

DSC09098Small mileage day – but big on errands.  We finally got everything we needed (Jason needed new shoes!), and packed it up outside the REI.  It looked like an REI sidewalk sale, but it was just us! Some guy stood and chatted with us almost the entire time, which hurried us along sufficiently.   We also bought food and started out of town on the bike paths.  These bike paths were great, but contributed to our two mishaps of the day.  You see, Jason had strapped our newly-bought oatmeal to the back of his bike… and then hit a big bump that dislodged it.  Crash!  Oatmeal everywhere, but luckily there was enough remaining for one breakfast worth.

Later, the bike paths kept splitting and curving and we got pretty confused.  Jason hit one of those poles that exist in bike paths to keep cars out, which was mishap #2.  Don’t worry, he was fine.  Oops!  We are still getting used to how wide our bikes are.

Caution, Moose crossing! Our very first large animal siting.

Caution, Moose crossing! Our very first large animal siting.

 

Outside of town the bike path continued alongside the busy highway, and it was remarkable just how many people were actively using it.  At one point, Jason saw a moose crossing sign, and then immediately realized he actually saw a moose!  The first wildlife sighting of the trip.

First bug bite of the trip.

First bug bite of the trip.

The turn-off for our campground.  I hope we don't get lost on the way there...

The turn-off for our campground. I hope we don’t get lost on the way there…

We got in to camp quite early and had a relaxing evening in a lovely riverside campsite.  Dinner was quite good; thanks for the dehydrated beans Mom!  They are actually delicious.  It was more than passing strange to go to bed at 9:30 with the sun still bright in the sky.  Actually, as I write this, it is nearly 10pm and full daylight.  Crazy!

May 12: Eagle River to King Mountain – 70 miles

The mighty Matanuska River.  Scenery Galore!

The mighty Matanuska River. Scenery Galore!

Finally, the scenery arrived in full force today.  Now, we felt like we were riding through Alaska.  The morning was cold and foggy, but the sky was clear by the time we left behind the more populated areas.  On the way out of town, I (Daisy) got a double shot of espresso and was immediately very  excited about everything.  In particular, about the amazing bike path next to the road.  There was a complete tunnel / curly-cue just to get us up a hill!  It was wild.  Eventually we did have to ride on the shoulder of the main highway, but it was wide and free of debris.

Incredible bike path curly-cue.

Incredible bike path curly-cue.

Lunch on the river delta.  Beautiful spot!

Lunch on the river delta. Beautiful spot!

We took a quieter road to Palmer, which is actually Alaska’s only town that was founded as an agricultural community.  Apparently they are famous for giant vegetables, including a record 100+ pound cabbage.  We stopped for lunch on the incredibly wide river delta with the mountains looming down on us.  Across the river we could see horseback riders, folks in giant RV buses, and a  backpacker all running around on the silty sand.

Just outside of Palmer.  I know I don't look it, but I was tired!

Just outside of Palmer. I know I don’t look it, but I was tired!

In Palmer we were tired.  Really really tired, and we debated calling it a day.  Then we had ice cream cones, and started up the hill towards the mountains!  The scenery just got better and better, and there was only one slight mishap of a dropped glove that was quickly recovered.

 

We camped in the distinctive shadow of King Mountain, pumping water from an old-fashioned well and sterilizing it with our fancy UV pen.  It was so cool to finally use our gear!  We also decided to prep for the morning – by preparing a fire in the kitchen shelter next to our site.  The piles of moose poop all over the campground inspired us, and we used about twenty moose-turds as starter.  In the morning it was so easy to light and have instant warmth.

Our campground was in the shadow of aptly named King Mountain.

Our campground was in the shadow of aptly named King Mountain.

Moose poop inspired us to build a fire.  It made great starter!

Moose poop inspired us to build a fire. It made great starter!

 

 

Who knew the final packing would be this difficult?!

It took us SEVEN hours to do the final preparations to get on the plane.  No kidding.  Just doing the bikes took four hours, mainly because Freeze Thaw put Loctite on every single bolt and taking them off for shipping was next to impossible.  We broke two bolts and bent some others, so had to send Jason’s dad to the hardware store for emergency replacements.  Thanks Mike!  Normally, we love the guys at Freeze Thaw, but during the bike packing process I was ready to call them up and demand they drive to Maryland to help us!

Eventually, however, we prevailed.

All packed up and at the airport in Baltimore.

All packed up and at the airport in Baltimore.

Daisy begins her dissertation.  Notice the Alaska guide book at her side for inspiration.

Daisy begins her dissertation. Notice the Alaska guide book at her side for inspiration.

We got to the airport very early for our flight, nearly 3 hours, because I (Daisy) was afraid it would be hard to get the bikes on.  Somehow, it was no problem.  The only hiccup (and it was an expensive one) was an overpacked bag that weighed 54 pounds and cost an extra $.  YIKES!! We couldn’t take anything out because we had secured two boxes together with about 150 feet of duck tape.  Hee hee.

Luckily, all that extra time at the airport meant that Daisy got to start her PhD dissertation!  Watch out Statistics Department, the next Dr. Philtron is on her way.

The flight itself went off without a hitch. As we were nearing Anchorage we got impressive views of the coastal mountains. It was amazing to see the glaciers and sharp mountain peaks.

 

Glaciers and Mountains here we come!

Glaciers and Mountains here we come!

After pulling into the gate, we were looking out the airplane window at the baggage folks, and were VERY excited to see the bike boxes come off the plane, and in one piece! Success! It took us a couple hours to put the bikes together and get everything packed back up, but then we were on our way.

Leaving the airport in Alaska

Leaving the airport in Alaska

Our Warmshowers host, Sage, met us at the airport on her bicycle and we rode the bike paths to her house. It was beautiful how the path weaved along the mud flats and a stream. We slept and had nice warm showers in the morning.

Sage convinced us to head east on the Glenn Highway instead of going north to Fairbanks. Now, we’ll be bicycling along the beautiful glaciers we saw from the plane. It will be a few days shorter, so we’ll have time to sight-see and go off route later on in Canada. (We’ll just have to come back and do Denali biking and/or backpacking another time).

The weather is great in Anchorage – 60s, sunny, and not a cloud to be seen. We are having a wonderful start!

Sunset over the mud flats of Anchorage.

Sunset over the mud flats of Anchorage.

Made it to Maryland: next stop Alaska

Success!  We made it to Maryland, and are still wrestling with our stuff and getting the bikes ready for shipping.  Now, I will write a little bit about the past three days riding.  We encountered a perfect day, a stormy day, and a hot day, but here we are!

The most wonderful sight of our second day right: cows, ponies, and a boat.

The most wonderful sight of our second day right: cows, ponies, and a boat.

Last time we checked in, we were at Standing Stone Coffee Company, our favorite coffee roaster / laundromat in Huntingdon.  I (Daisy) also got the unfortunate news that I will have to defend my PhD dissertation in September, instead of in February as I had planned. This means that I have to write my dissertation during the next three months, on tour, so if Jason does most of the updates… you’ll know why!

Making dinner on our second day.  All smiles until we realized the forgotten salt.

Making dinner on our second day. All smiles until we realized the forgotten salt.

The ride from Huntingdon south was so pleasant and peaceful that it was almost boring.  We stopped for lunch in the shade of a tree and had a kind man offer us water, and the climb to the campground we stayed in was winding and not too steep.  We stayed the night in Cowan’s Gap State Park campground, nestled in a high valley between two mountain ridges. It is a lovely spot, and we reaped the rewards of a Tuesday in May: No campers whatsoever. The only hiccup – once dinner was made we realized we had forgotten salt! Noooo!

DSC09024

 

We got up earlier on Wednesday, and had a better time packing up. The first-day panic was behind us! We were on the road by 8:30, and proudly, until we realized we had taken a wrong turn out of the campground and climbed uphill for half a mile before we realized it. Once we turned around, it was a beautiful descent into the next valley. Pennsylvania is full of ridges and valleys, and we enjoyed seeing spring blooms and new leaves on our descent.

A lovely restored farm building

A lovely restored farm building

From here, the hills became much more rolling, and we traveled through farmlands for most of the day. Jason decided to start counting the number of roadkill we saw next to the road. It was determined that the creature had to be at least palm-sized to count (i.e. no earthworms or tiny frogs). He got to twenty over the course of the day! I had no idea the backroads of PA were so deadly.

Hiding from the rain in a rifle range pavilion.

Hiding from the rain in a rifle range pavilion.

Around 11 a thunderstorm rolled in over us. We threw on our rain gear and rode until finding the first covered area for lunch. It turned out to be a pretty abandoned picnic pavilion adjacent to a rifle range, but it was perfect for us. The temperature dropped, and we bundled up over lunch. The rain got harder, so we put on the full rain kit – booties, pants, coat, and handcovers I made out of shower curtains. Just as we rolled out of the tent… the clouds lifted and the rain practically stopped. Ha!

DSC09044We arrived in Gettysburg around 4, where a friend of ours from Harrisburg met us. We got a (pricey) tent site, bought salt and pepper (!), ate a snack, and set up the tent. Our friend had brought his bicycle, and we set out to ride the ‘auto tour’ through the battlefield.  It was peaceful and quiet, with stone monuments everywhere.

That night, there was a giant college group in the tenting area next to us, at least 40, and some of them also had big vehicles with loud sound systems, so you can imagine how the evening went. We had imagined earlier in the day that the tents next to us belonged to some wonderful church group who would quietly cook dinner and offer us corn on the cob. In the end, though, the earplugs went in and we were quickly asleep.

Maryland boy comes home!

Maryland boy comes home!

Today we wiggled through Pennsylvania for a few miles, following Google map directions, and rode past a ‘road closed’ sign. We have learned to mostly ignore these signs, and this time was no different. A small crew was digging a culvert of some sort, which we easily rode around through an innocent bystander’s yard. Just past this, we reached the Maryland line.

In Maryland we hit a few dirt roads. Every time we hit dirt we yell “Alaska!” because we are so excited about Denali Park road, and the Top of the World highway. Our favorite part of the day was on Sam’s Creek Rd, which meandered through peaceful farms. It eventually entered a tiny, hidden valley and turned to dirt (Alaska!), before spitting us out on a busy highway. The highways were big and busy for the last 10 miles, but we made it despite the heat. It got up to 84 degrees today!

DSC09049

Now, we are at Jason’s parent’s house. We will rest for a day here packing up the bikes and doing a final reckoning with our gear. We already decided to ditch some of the seven pounds of rice we were carrying… oops. Next time we have a real update on this blog we will be in Alaska. Yippee!!

Four wheels rolling – we’re on our way!

Last glance at the apartment, first time rolling with everything!

Last glance at the apartment, first time rolling with everything!

 

 

It is still sinking in, but we are super excited to be rolling.

We wrapped everything up yesterday in terms of work and apartment, and rolled away from State College about 3:30pm.  One of my very best friends, Vishesh, rode with us for the 30 miles to our first camp.  It was wonderful to have him with us, because the road was familiar to us but new to him.

Spring is starting, finally.  We saw baby lambs, blooming trees, and wild mustard greens poking up everywhere.  They are an invasive species around here, but they are certainly delicious this time of year!

 

Baby lambs!

Baby lambs!

We got in to camp around 7:00, and we greeted by more wonderful statistics friends waiting for us.  They had brought food and firewood, and wasted no time in getting it all cooking.  Thank you so much Jeonga (and Won) for all the delicious food, and Jason for dessert! I can’t believe that we didn’t take a group picture!

The adventurers rolling into camp.

The adventurers rolling into camp.

We spent a few hours chatting, deciding where we might in 5 years time (and who we might be with!).  I think we will scatter across the country, but hopefully we can have a reunion with some sort of regularity. When they left the campground, there were a few tears…

Camp in the morning - taming the gear.

Camp in the morning – taming the gear.

 

Rock formations near Huntingdon.

Rock formations near Huntingdon.

It was a chilly night, but we were warm and cozy in our bags.  In the morning the sun was out, the temps were up, and we had to once again tame the pile of stuff and get it packed on the bicycle.  It might seem like a lot, but when I remember that it is literally all we have for the next 1.5 years… well, it doesn’t seem so much.  Also, many items that seem silly now will be wonderful in Alaska.  Like…  the handwarmers, extra gloves, long underwear, etc.  It doesn’t help how many food items we are carrying way too much of because we decided to eat them instead of tossing them.  Like… 1.5 pounds of almonds, 1 pound of gatorade powder, and about 4 pounds of rice. Ha!

Now we are in Huntingdon at our favorite coffee shop / laundromat.  After this, we will be on uncharted roads.  Forward!