Category Archives: camping

Posts about where we stayed the night.

Gear test: a three-day ride up Cuchara Pass

At the top of Cuchara Pass!

For our fall break we started in Walsenburg and rode three days up to Cuchara Pass and another day back down. Besides testing our gear, there were three things we wanted to go up against for practice: a strong headwind, a mountain pass, and gravel roads. All three of these will meet us in Tierra del Fuego. Luckily for us we got to try all three – at once! After the first day we weren’t sure we could do it, but by the end of the third day we were much more confident.

Day 1, Lathrop State Park to La Veta (15 miles, 900′ climbing, dirt): We camped overnight at Lathrop State Park and left our car there at the visitor’s center. We got on the bikes and headed out after a breakfast of chocolate chip pancakes. The first day’s ride took us across gravel roads to La Veta. We enjoyed the low-traffic road as it wound past deer, prairie dogs, pronghorn, cattle, and even a herd of horses that galloped across the road in front of us.

However, we had to work hard the whole time to fight the headwind. It was 20-30 mph! Tierra del Fuego is also known for very strong headwinds. How fitting!

As we came into town we checked the weather. The overnight forecast was 30-40 mph winds with 75(+) mph gusts. We abandoned our plans to camp (at the for sale Sammie’s Campground) and got a room in the La Veta Inn instead.

Day 2, La Veta to Cuchara (12 miles, 1400′ climbing, pavement): Whoa was it windy! We waited until after 10 AM to get on the road so the winds would die down. Today we travelled on pavement, but the headwinds continued. It was up, up, up the whole way. We passed several different rock formations. There are hundreds of rock walls that radiate away from the Spanish Peaks. The yellow aspens added some unexpected color to our late October ride.

Riding past the “Devil’s Steps”

Cuchara is a cute “town” that is simply a block-long collection of stores for tourists. We stayed in a B&B and the kids had a blast playing in the attic-like second bedroom. There was a playground in town, but very few kids.

Day 3, Chuchara to the pass and back to La Veta (6 miles and 1500′ up, 18 miles back down): The B&B’s breakfast was great – we all ate a lot. I (Jason) had an extra (third) muffin on the way out the door and that really powered me up the pass. It was 6 more miles to the top of the paved road. The headwind was not so strong, and the road got steeper. At the top we took our obligatory photo with the pass sign, then continued up a little further (above 10,000′!) on a dirt road to a wildflower overlook.

Snacktime is serious

We decided to head back down to prepare our lunch in the park in Cuchara while A and H played on the playground. Needless to say, it was a lot faster to go down than up! After a family conference we decided to go back to the La Veta Inn to spend the night in our “favorite room.” We realized that we were carrying our full set of gear on the bikes – including tent and pads and bags – but didn’t camp at all.

Day 4, La Veta to Lathrop State Park (15 miles mostly down on dirt): We took the same gravel road back down to the park. Somehow the wind shifted so we could have a little bit more headwind before our trip was complete. Our car was waiting for us and we ate lunch at the picnic tables in the park. We packed up and drove west to enjoy our first visit to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Gear check = Success!

Summary: Salish Sea Cycling Loop, 15 days (293 miles)

What a fun trip! We made a complete loop around the Salish Sea along the northwest coast of Washington and dipping into Canada. We started/ended in Bellingham, but of course you could start anywhere along the loop.

Here’s a list of where we stayed. You’ll notice we stayed in a lot of WA State Parks because they have hiker/biker sites for $12 total and you don’t need reservations in advance — they have a ‘no cyclist turned away policy’!
– Larrabee State Park
– Bay View State Park
– Washington Park
– Deception Pass State Park
– Fort Worden State Park
– Compass Rose Farm
– Sequim Bay State Park
– Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge
– Warmshowers host in Port Angeles
– Island View Beach Regional Park (Canada)
– Gulf Island National Park and Reserve, Smonećten Campground (Canada)
– Peace Arch RV Park (Canada)
– Birch Bay State Park
– Friend’s house in Bellingham

We were fairly heavily loaded. Daisy and A were on a tandem, but since H broke her arm at the start of summer she was on a trailer bike (Wee Hoo) with Jason. Between bike, gear, and kid, the setup was about 150 lbs each, plus the weight of the adult. Yes, somehow we managed to have about equal loads without weighing them until the end!

Birch Bay to Bellingham (27 mi)

Car-less roads near the refinery

This was the last day of our summer 2023 bike tour! After breakfast, the kids and Daisy went back to the beach to play while I packed up camp and the bikes. The Adventure Cycling Route in this area (Pacific Coast #1) takes you on several no-car roads by the oil refinery. This was a quiet, pleasant stretch of the ride. We did have a little trouble at one of the gates getting our loaded touring bikes past, though. This was easily solved by taking the bags off, pushing through the small gully, and reloading them again.

There were then some minor hills, but the more important characteristic was that it started to get hot and sunny. And due to that I started to wilt. (One of the things Daisy loves most about me, you can be sure, hahaha.) We stopped at a convenience store and dumped ice cold water on my shirt to cool off. That helped a lot! When we finally rolled into town we stopped at Wood’s coffee at Boulevard Park. This is a great spot to relax, and get some snacks and coffee. We finished the day by riding to a friends’ house, where we camped in their back yard. We got some much needed showers/baths (H excepted, who continued to be a dirty little monster, I guess!) and enjoyed poke bowls for dinner.

Beautiful Mt. Baker!
Getting really close now!
A’s way to celebrate
H’s way to celebrate
Philtron family completes the loop!

15 days and 293 miles later, we were back where we started. We had a great time on our Salish Sea Bicycle Loop!!

Next summer we are thinking about a loop along the Sunshine coast and Vancouver Island north of Nanaimo… TBD!

Peace Arch RV Park to Birch Bay State Park, USA! (20 mi)

Yum yum yum

Today we passed more blueberry bushes than I’ve ever seen before. It was farm after farm after farm! We stopped at one farm stand and bought the minimum, which ended up being about two dollars for two pounds. They must have made a mistake?! They were absolutely delicious!! As we continued on the low traffic roads, we took note of a very specific pattern: each farm had a mansion next to it. We coined the term “blueberry barons” and continued on our way.

“Blueberry Baron” mansion
Very very steep hill
Suburbia is more compact in Canada

We arrived at the border a little before lunch and due to a lack of signage waited in line with the cars. Luckily, this only took about 20 minutes to get through the line. Of course, when we got to the border agent he said: “Did you know you could just go in the building over there?” Although I wanted to say some choice words about how we obviously didn’t, I kept it to a polite “No” since he was a border agent. Across the border in Blaine we found a crappy grocery store and an ok pizza place in the shopping center we targeted for lunch. We were excited to get back on the road and arrive at Birch Bay.

Birch Bay snacktime

Upon our arrival we stopped at a convenience store for a well-deserved ice cream snack. The town of Birch Bay is small, but there are a few tourist spots and the bay is beautiful. At the state park we asked a couple of volunteers for help finding the hiker/biker sites. Unfortunately, the two sites were inadequate: one was occupied by what looked like a long term resident, and the other didn’t have a large enough flat spot for our tent. We went to the regular campground loop and found a spot. While the girls got set up I went to pay at the campground’s check-in ranger station. We ended up paying the regular hiker/biker rate instead of full price, because the manager/ranger there has that policy. A pleasant surprise! The girls splashed in the bay while I cooked dinner. We had a relatively uneventful last night of camping before returning to Bellingham tomorrow.

Campsite in Birch Bay State Park
Walking to the beach
Calm water